How to stitch on canvas

Displaying a finished piece of embroidery in a hoop is the default as it is a simple way to finish it off and put it on display. This does mean that they are not viewed as pieces of artwork in the same way that a painting in a rectangular frame might be.

Finishing in a hoop also restricts the size and form of the work. So I’ve been experimenting with stitching on pre-stretched canvases. You can buy these quite cheaply in shops such as B&M and Flying Tiger.

Here are some of my thoughts of how you translate embroidery to canvas.

Wide wooden frame

Canvases are stretched over a wooden frame that is about 1 inch wide. This restricts the area for stitching and although you can get creative with the angle of your needle when stitching in the areas above the frame, this border needs to be taken into account in the design.

Large warp and weft

The canvases I’ve bought have wide warp and weft threads. This means that it can be hard to stitch really delicate designs as you normally stitch in the tiny hole that is the intersection between warp and weft threads. However, canvas is also a fairly even weave fabric meaning that modern designs with geometric shapes work well.

Using thicker threads

Canvas is a thick fabric which can be hard on the fingers. But it also means it can hold the weight of thicker threads such as yarn.

I found that using chenille needles rather than crewel needles worked best when stitching on canvas as the thicker needles gave better grip and the larger eye accommodated thicker thread.

Pre-stretched

As the canvas is pre-stretched it means that if it becomes loose it can’t easily be re-stretched to make the fabric taut (which is needed for great looking embroidery). Canvas can become loose if it is heavily worked so choosing a design with fewer stitches will help prevent the canvas going loose.

Changing the fabric

You can take the canvas off and use the frame to stretch other fabrics. I’ve experimented with replacing the canvas with a very open weave linen stretching the new fabric over the frame and holding it in place with drawing pins while I stitched. Once the piece was finished I re-stretched the fabric and attached it securely using a staple gun. I worked in this way as I don’t have a roll frame embroidery stand.

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The traits you need to be an embroiderer

I’m a firm believer that anyone can make gorgeous embroidery, but there are some traits that really help when picking up a needle to start an embroidery project. Here’s three and why they are important:

Patience

Embroidery can take a long time to complete.

I don’t often time how long it takes me to stitch a piece from start to finish as one of the joys of embroidery is you can pick it up and put it down at will. But for this piece I only stitched it in blocks of time (zoom calls and train journeys!) so I know this took 12 hours to finish.

You need to be patient and know that for many fully stitched designs such as this, you are not going to be able to finish it in an afternoon.

Perseverance

Especially if you are stitching a new design or experimenting with a new stitch, it won’t always go right first time.

It can be disheartening to see an area that you have spend an hour or two stitching doesn’t look quite right. But more often than not, making a decision to cut it out and re-stitch is the right one.

With this map of Europe I originally wanted to fill in each country with a different colour, but after completing a couple it just didn’t look right so I cut out all that stitching and started outlining instead. It looks so much better!

An eye for detail

I was originally going to say ‘attention to detail’ because you do need to pay attention to the smallest things. The fraction of a millimetre difference in where you place your needle for a stitch can make the difference between good and great looking embroidery. But it think that it’s slightly different to that - it’s about being able to look at a design or piece of stitching and notice where an added detail will make a difference.

I initially stitched the centre of this crocus using only orange thread, but it didn’t look quite right. Mixing one strand of yellow with one of orange, really made the difference.

But don’t worry if you are reading this and this doesn’t sound like you but you still want to create a great embroidery! This floral stitch sampler is the perfect project for you. Each floral motif is stitched separately meaning you can pick it up and put in down - you only need a small dose of patience to stitch each one. It come with pre-printed fabric and a guide of which stitches you can use for each motif - I’ve persevered and used my eye for detail to get this design right and ready for you to stitch.

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How many strands of embroidery floss to use

Embroidery floss comes in skeins of six strands and patterns will often indicate how many strands to use. But what effect does varying the number of strand actually have on your embroidery?

I tried stitching various embroidery stitches with different numbers of thread to demonstrate how this impacts the overall look. For many stitches they loose their definition if too many strands of floss are used. But some stitches, for example stem stitch actually look better with thicker thread.

Here are some things to bear in mind whichever stitch/thread number combination you choose.

• One strand - Perfect for fine embroidery work and for thin outlines.

• Two strands - I stitch most of my projects with two strands because the additional strand gives a little bit more bulk. It’s especially useful to have that extra stitch when filling areas it means fewer stitches are needed to fill the area.

• Three strands - I sometimes use three strands when stitching plant stems as it gives extra width without the need for another row of stitches.

• Four strands - I have to admit I rarely stitch with four or five strands, but sometimes four strands is just the right amount of bulk needed for the part of the pattern you are stitching.

• Five strands - It seems like a very odd number to stitch with if you ask me. But if it’s right for the project then go for it!

• Six strands - Sometimes you want maximum bulk and to retain the embroidery floss look, in which case all 6 strands can be used. A longer length of three strands can be doubled if you want to stitch with 6 strands but don’t want as much bulk at the eye of the needle.

Backstitch

Split Stitch

Stem Stitch

Chain Stitch

Fly stitch (top), Seed stitch (bottom)

Cross stitch (top), French knot (bottom)

Want to experiment with the effect different number of strands has on the finished embroidery piece? Then this floral stitch sampler is a perfect project to practice on. It comes with pre-printed fabric and guidance on stitches that you can use, but the final composition of stitches and how to make them is totally up to you.

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How to deal with a wonky hoop

The best hoops are nicely round, the inner and outer hoops fit snuggly together meaning they grip the fabric and hold it drum tight for stitching.

A wonky hoop won’t hold your fabric tight enough to give you enough tension to create great stitches. I’ve learned this the hard way. I went on holiday for 2 weeks with plenty of embroidery to keep me busy but only one hoop. I didn’t check that hoop before packing it and spent the whole holiday cursing that hoop!

1 - Rotate the hoops

Try rotating the inner hoop around before adding the fabric to find the best fit and minimise the size of any gaps. Once you’ve found the best fit, mark the edge of the inner and outer hoop in pencil so you can align them back up when you’ve added the fabric.

2 - Wrap the inner hoop

Wrapping fabric tape around the inner hoop can help prevent the fabric getting marked or creased when it is in the hoop. It also helps to bulk out the inner hoop and potentially reduce any of the gaps as the fabric tape gets squished where the hoop it snug and fills the gap where it isn’t.

3 -Ditch it!

Some hoops are just beyond saving and it is worth preventing hours of frustration by just deciding it’s not worth trying to stitch with that hoop.

If you are thrifty and don’t want to just throw it out then it can be used for framing (where the fabric can be held taut with gathering stitches) and/or remove the outer part of the hoop when displaying the finished embroidery.

It could also be used for non-embroidery projects such as a macramé wall hanging

You shouldn’t find any wonky hoops in my kits! I’ve tried and tested a range of hoops from different brands and only use hoops I know are the best. I check the hoops before I add them to my kits to avoid giving you the challenge of a wonky hoop. Why not take a look at the range of kits I have available here.

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How to create a quilters knot

I used to create a knot at the end of a thread by taking a few centimetres at the end, folding it over into a loop and then knotting that to get a big enough knot. It used up quite a lot of thread and left me with four ends that could be caught up in my subsequent stitching.

And then at a workshop someone demonstrated a quilters knot - it was like magic, so quick and simple and I’ve not looked back!

Traditionally it is used in quilting as it is small enough to pop through one layer of fabric but big enough to say put and not pop through the second layer therefore remaining hidden.

It’s a similar technique to the once used to create a French knot, just without the fabric.

Wrap around the needle

Take the end of the thread (furthest from the needle) and wrap it round the needle a few times.

Use the thumb and finger of one hand to hold the end against the needle and your other hand to create the wraps.

The more wraps there are, the larger the knot. I find at least four are needed for most fabrics.

Move the wraps

With one hand holding the needle, use the other to hold the wraps together. Then carefully move the wraps down the needle, over the eye and down to the end of the thread.

Pull the knot tight

When the wraps reach the end of the thread, pull them tight and they will form a knot.

Want to practice your quilters knots? Then head over to my shop and browse the kits I have on offer and before you know it you’ll be knotting and stitching like a pro!

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Stitch Showcase: Burden Stitch

With my houseplant collection of craft kits, I’m always on the look out for stitches that would look good as pot or basket decorations. When I came across this stitch, I knew I wanted to try it out.

• Lay down parallel rows of horizontal stitches (A to B)

• Start at the bottom corner, add a stitch at right angles ending just below the next horizontal stitch (C to D)

• Keep adding vertical stitches, evenly spaced, with enough gap between each to fit a stitch on the next row

• For the next and subsequent rows, place the vertical stitches between those of the previous row.

Want to have a go at this stitch? Keep an eye out for the palm house plant kit that it heading into my shop very soon. Alternatively, you could use this stitch instead of any of those I recommend in the guidance for any of my houseplant kits. You can find the full range of houseplant kits here.

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When to change your hand embroidery needle

I used to do a lot of beadwork and beading needles are very long and very thin. Over time the needle is stressed as it passes through the beads and all of a sudden when you give it a little tug it snaps and can be a bit of a shock.

I’ve found that hand embroidery needles snap less often as they are a little thicker so how do you know when to change them?

1 - It starts to bend

For me this is much more common that a snapped needle. I find that I often don’t notice how bent a needle has got until it’s laid on a flat surface like a table. You can keep stitching with a bent needle but it can be difficult to stitch with if you need to be very active.

2 - It is tarnished

The oils on your fingers can tarnish a needle over time. If the needle is plated then the metal plate may wear as the needle passes through the fabric. Take a look at your needles and see whether the centre of the needle is a slightly different colour or duller than the ends. You can try washing the needles to see if the colour goes back to normal, if that doesn’t work then it’s best to put it to one side.

3 - It is snagging

Over time the surface of the needle shaft may become roughed up and start snagging on the fabric. I also find that lower quality needles can have this problem from the start. Replace a needle as soon as you start of feel the snagging.

4 - It goes blunt

If you are finding that you are having to use more and more force to piece the fabric then the needle may be blunter than you need. Try switching to a new needle to determine if it was the needle or whether it was something else making it harder work like the bulk of stitches on the back of the work. Needles can be sharpened if they do go blunt.

Finally, what do you do with any needles you no longer have use for? If you need to dispose of them, don’t place them lose in the bin as they may escape and hurt someone. Weave them into a bit of fabric or cardboard or place them in a bag. Needles and pins are made from steel (hence why magnetic needle minders work) so they might be able to be recycled anywhere that also accepts things such as nails and bolts.

All my kits come with one needle that will get you through the project and plenty more future projects. But if you already have enough embroidery needles in your life, just drop me a message when you order and I can leave the needle out.

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Stitch Showcase: Fan Stitch

Fan stitch is also commonly called ray stitch, I prefer the name fan as I thing it really describes what it looks like. To me this stitch conjures up images in my mind of large palm leaves and this stitch can be used to represent leaves.

• Create the base of the fan by stitching one long straight stitch. It is generally about half the length of the fan centre line

• Now create the central fan line. It should be in a straight line with the base stitch

• Either draw on guide lines or imagine the shape of a diamond

• Bring the needle through the fabric a few mm down from the top of the centre line and a few mm away from the centre line. Complete this stitch at the point at which the base and centre lines meet.

• Repeat on the other side of the centre line, making a mirror image stitch.

• Repeat for a further two pairs of lines so there are 7 lines in total coming from the base stitch (the centre line and 3 pairs of stitches)

Want to have a go at this stitch? Sign up to my newsletter to hear when the palm houseplant kit that uses a variation of this stitch will be launched.

The 100 days project

The 100 day project is a free global art project that takes place online. Once a year you are encouraged to create something every day for 100 days. In 2022 it runs from 13th February to 23rd May.

My aim is to try 100 different embroidery stitches, ideally ones that I’ve not attempted before. I’ll be using thread offcuts and my aim to to pick a thread, a stitch and a segment on my template and just try stitching the stitch.

To fit 100 stitches into a hoop I created this template. It has 20 stitches per round and 5 rounds in total.

Alternatively there is a 50 stitch template which is better for a smaller hoop or if larger segments per stitch are needed.

The template will fit a hoop of about 20cm diameter. I’m using a 25cm (10 inch) hoop so I I used the template to get the end points of the lines in place. I then removed the template and completed the rest of the lines using a ruler. I created each round using the template cutting a round away after tracing it.

I’m also aiming to use this as a chance to practice my video shooting and editing skills.

Follow along with my progress on my Instagram stories highlight (you will need an Instagram account to view), my YouTube playlist or sign up to my newsletter. I’ll be publishing blog posts on as many of the stitches as possible but these will take a little longer to create.

What additional supplies are useful for embroidery?

When starting out with embroidery you need just a few supplies (that I cover here). But if you are hooked and want to do more and more embroidery what other supplies might it be useful to invest in (or ask for as gifts).

Thread storage

If you’ve stitched a few projects you’ve probably got a growing stash of threads. Investing in some thread storage really helps in finding the colours you need (and ensuring you don’t end up buying skeins of colours you already have).

This blog post covers different storage options, but my favourite is thread boxes and bobbins.

Embroidery Stand

If you are really hooked on embroidery then you may be stitching for hours on end and finding that you get cramp in your hoop holding hand.

An embroidery stand can hold your hoop for you. It also frees up your non-stitching hand so you can use one hand on the top of the fabric and another underneath.

This stand slips under your leg as you are sat stitching to hold it still.

I tend to make sure that I take regular breaks rather than use a stand but I do use on for really large pieces which are much heavier.

Cutting mat, rotary cutter & quilting ruler

You can cut up fabric for stitching on just using scissors but if you are wanting to make life a little easier for you then a cutting mat, rotary cutter and quilting ruler makes life so much simpler.

I will buy a length of calico, wash it (so there is not shrinkage) and iron it (another great investment is to get an iron purely for your crafting). Then I’ll cut up the fabric into lots of squares for different sized hoops so I always have fabric ready to stitch on.

Daylight bulb or lamp

Especially during the winter if you are wanting to do lots of stitching then investing in a daylight lamp or bulb can be invaluable. It really helps prevent eye strain and in particular when trying to stitch darker colours such as black.

I found that the IKEA NÄVLINGE desk lamp works really well for me. It’s not a daylight bulb but can be easily angled onto my embroidery to give some extra light when I find my eyes straining.

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Stitch Showcase: Scroll stitch

Scroll stitch comprises a knot and a tail and gives a beautiful curved look. Like a lot of stitches it takes a bit of practice to get into the rhythm but once you’ve got the steps you’ll be scrolling onwards.

My top tip if you want to make sure your scrolls are all in the same direction then make sure that you bring the needle through the fabric the same direction each time.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric at the start of the stitch (A)

• At the point where you want the scroll part of the stitch to be placed (B) bring the needle down and up through the fabric as close together as possible

• Leave the needle threaded through the fabric and wrap the floss around the needle from the eye end of the need to the point of the needle

• Pull the needle through slowly to prevent any thread tangles

• Repeat for the rest of the scrolls

Want to try this stitch? It’s not one that is currently included as a recommended stitch for any of my kits but you can switch this for any of the stitches that decorate the pots in the houseplant collection of kits that you can browse here.

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Ideas for storing craft materials

I’ve just moved house. Packing up all my craft supplies I realised just how large my stash has grown. But I also realised in unpacking and trying to put away my supplies in a much larger space that there are lots of different ways to store your materials and you need to fit the storage method to the type and volume of items you have.

You can see how much I crammed into a cupboard approximately 1 metre by 2 metres in the video below.

Storage boxes

These are great for items you use less frequently as they keep the dust off.

I use both plastic storage tubs and cardboard boxes making sure I group together items in a way that makes sense eg I have a box for interfacing, bias binding and elastic that I only really need for dressmaking projects.

Drawer units

Smaller drawer units such as these are great for keeping a few items together such as my jewellery making supplies.

Larger drawer units are perfect for fabric or other bulkier items.

Peg boards

I am a recent convert to these having seen other crafters on Instagram make use of them. As an embroiderer, these are perfect for storing embroidery hoops which are otherwise quite bulky to store.

Jam jars

Jam jars are so versatile. I store buttons, safety pins and other small items in the smaller jars. I’ve also add some padding to the top of some jars to make them into pin cushions/sewing supply storage. Larger jars I throw away the lid, cover in crochet and store things such as scissors, crochet hooks etc.

Take away tubs

These stack really well and I’ve found them very useful for storing small items such as beads and sequins.

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Stitch Showcase: Layered Lazy Daisy Stitch

Layered lazy daisy stitch is a variation of lazy daisy stitch and can be used if you want to fill in the centre of a lazy daisy stitch .

• I recommend working this stitch by creating the inner lazy daisy and then then outer one

• Bring the needle up through the fabric at the point where you want your stitch to start (A)

• Take it back down as close as possible to the original hole

• Gently pull the thread through until you have a small loop - don't pull fully tight at this point

• Push the needle up through the fabric at the point where you want the stitch to end, 5mm is a good length (B)

• Create a tiny straight stitch over the loop so it can’t come loose (C)

• Repeat the steps above creating the start and end points of the stitch just a millimetre away from the first.

Want to try this stitch? It’s not one that is currently included as a recommended stitch for any of my kits but you can switch this for any of the stitches in the floral stitch sample kit that you can find here.

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How using two layers of fabric can help your embroidery

My go to fabric for embroidery is a nice bit of calico. It has a nice thread count and weight to it meaning it doesn’t pucker very much when stitching.

When I change things up and use a different type of fabric especially thinner cotton or satin fabric I’ll add in another layer (normally after I’ve stitched a few stitches and discovered that they aren’t behaving quite the way I was expecting).

But when might using two layers of fabric be useful.

Fabric not being held tight by the hoop

Sometimes you’ll have a hoop where you’ve tightened the screw as far as it will go but your fabric is still not staying taut.

This may be that the fabric is thin or slippery, or it could be that the inner and outer hoops are slightly misaligned and not as close fitting as in other hoops (such as the one pictured)

If you don’t have another hoop you can use instead, then adding another layer of fabric means that there is just a little bit more for the hoop to grip onto.

Using thicker threads and/or embellishments

Although it may not seem like it when you are stitching, each stitch adds some weight to the fabric. The more stitches there are, the more weight and the more likely the fabric is to pucker.

Beads and sequins also add weight to the fabric and can lead to puckering or sagging fabric.

Adding an under-layer of fabric helps to carry some of that weight. If you are using particularly heavy threads or embellishments then you may want to use a thicker under-layer or even add a third layer of fabric or use interfacing.

This piece had several different cords couched on the front meaning a bit of extra support was needed at the back.

Using lots of isolated stitches

There are some designs such as this kit where there are lots of stitches isolated from one another. When stitching a piece like this you could start and tie of a thread after stitching each individual but that ends up being a hassle. The easier thing is to stitch each colour in one go but you end up with thread trails between each stitch which can show on the front of the fabric.

Adding a second layer of fabric helps to hide these thread trails and make it less likely that they can be seen from the front of the fabric.

And if you do use a second layer of fabric what can you use? I tend to use a bit of muslin or a thinner weight calico but you could use any woven fabric.

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Stitch Showcase: Double Layer Whipped Backstitch

I came across this variation on whipped backstitch recently and it was a bit of a lightbulb moment. Whipped backstitch is a favourite of mine and with this version you can stitch thicker lines without needing to increase the number of strands of thread being used.

The main difference to whipped backstitch is that rather than laying down just one row of backstitches, you lay down two or three rows as the base to whip around.

• Backstitch is the foundation and then floss is wrapped around each of these stitches to create a cord effect

• Start by backstitching the complete length of the line you want to embroider (see here for how to create a backstitch line)

• Create another row or two alongside the first row

• To wrap the backstitch, bring the needle up at the end of the backstitch length (B)

• Pass the needle under the first backstitch from right to left (E)

• Repeat on the next backstitch again passing from right to left

• Continue until the floss is wrapped around all the backstitches

• To finish push the needle back down through the fabric.

Whipped back stitch is one of my favourite stitches and I recommend it for many of my houseplant kits. You can switch in double layer whipped backstitch to give the plant stems some extra width.

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Stitch Showcase: Open Fishbone Stitch

There are a few different variations on the fishbone stitch, including open fishbone stitch and raised fishbone stitch.

• At the top of the shape bring the needle up close to the centre top

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle, completing the stitch just slightly to the other side of the centre of the shape

• Bring the needle up through the fabric in line with the first stitch but on the other side of the centre line

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle completing the stitch in line with the first one

• Repeat all the way down the shape, alternating sides A to B then C to D.

• Leave a small gap between each pair of stitches and aim to have the same sized gap all the way down the shape.

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Stitch Showcase: Raised Fishbone Stitch

I tend to use satin stitch or leaf stitch when filling in leaves but that stitch does tend to leave tiny gaps at the centre line of the leaf. Raised fishbone stitch is a great alternative as it creates a central line but as each stitch extends to the side of the leaf there are no gaps where the fabric shows through.

• At the top of the shape bring the needle up close to the centre top

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle at the edge of the shape

• Bring the needle up through the fabric close to the start of the first stitch but on the other side of the centre line

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle at the other side of the shape to the first stitch

• Repeat all the way down the shape, alternating sides A to B then C to D.

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Stitch Showcase: Fishbone Stitch

There are a few different variations on the fishbone stitch, including open fishbone stitch and raised fishbone stitch.

• At the top of the shape bring the needle up close to the centre top

• Start by creating a vertical line down the centre of the shape about 1cm long

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle, completing the stitch just slightly to one side of the centre of the shape

• Bring the needle up through the fabric in line with the first stitch but on the other side of the centre line

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle completing the stitch in line with the first one

• Repeat all the way down the shape, alternating sides A to B then C to D.

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Embroidery book gift guide

As I write this Christmas is approaching and I’ve been asked by my family what gifts I’d like. For the last few years there has always been an embroidery book or two on the list and here are some of my favourites that would make great gifts for yourself or the keen crafter in your life.

They are listed in no particular order and I’ve tried to include quite a diverse selection.

You can shop for all of these books via my bookshop.org embroidery book list *. The links for each book will take you to that individual title.

Please note: I am an affiliate of bookshop.org. This means that I may get a commission if you shop through this link but it doesn’t impact the price you pay. Affiliate links are marked with a (*). And, of course, you are free to purchase these books through a retailer of your choice.

The Ultimate Sashiko Sourcebook - Susan Briscoe *

Gives ideas for projects and plenty of design options and inspiration. It also gives the meaning behind each of the motif patterns.

Perfect if you like to understand the wider context of hand crafting alongside the practical.

The Hand-Stitched Flower Garden - Yuki Sugashima *

Beautiful and delicate floral, leaf and seed patterns stitched using a range of different embroidery techniques.

Great if you love to stitch seasonally inspired by nature and want to try 3-D embroidery or working with embellishments.

Embroidery - Mollie Makes *

There are some project ideas but what is really great about this book is the stitch technique section which guides you through how to create lots of different stitches.

A perfect book if you are just starting out with embroidery as it has a very accessible style.

Happy Stitch - Jodie Rackley

This book combines felt, fabric and simple embroidery stitches to make some fun projects.

A good book for small projects that use a little bit of embroidery. Many projects could be completed with kids.

Amazon link as this book isn’t available on bookshop.org

The Geometry of Hand Sewing - Natalie Chanin *

The book has a very minimal style and gets you to think about the creation of embroidery stitches by seeing what type of grid it is based on and how this can create stitch variations.

Order this if you like a touch of mathematics with your embroidery, but don’t let you put you off, it is beautiful book to look at too!

Colour Confident Stitching - Karen Barbé *

The focus of this book is colour rather than embroidery stitches themselves. It isn’t just about colour theory but how to be inspired by colour and build a colour palette for your embroidery.

Great at connecting you with how colour changes how your embroidery can evoke feelings rather than just focussing on how pretty it looks.

Book of Embroidery - Royal School of Needlework *

A detailed reference book covering many different techniques. I bought this as it covered some styles of embroidery I couldn’t find information about online.

The book to buy if you want to explore more techniques and styles and want an authoritative reference point.

The Modern Embroidery Workshop - Lauren Holtman *

I bought this book as I fell in love with a couple of Lauren’s patterns online (@larkrising on Instagram).

Buy this book if you want 20 gorgeous embroidery patterns to stitch (the marbling and feathers are my favourites).

My kits also make great gifts for craft lovers, you can browse my shop here.

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Embroidery kit gift guide

(Updated December 2024) As I write this Christmas is approaching and I’ve been asked by my family what gifts I’d like. For the last few years there has always been an embroidery kit or two on the list and here are some of my favourites that would make great gifts for yourself or the keen crafter in your life.

They are listed in no particular order and I’ve tried to include quite a diverse selection and indicate where I’ve personally tried one of their kits. All the businesses included in this post are small female owned businesses.

Embellished Elephant

Well I couldn’t do a gift guide without suggesting some of my own kits.

I think this star kit would make a great present but you can browse my current collections here.

Craftpod

I was a subscriber when they did a quarterly craft box, but now they focus on individual kits. Their designs are so beautiful and reflect the changing seasons.

Becky Hogg

I love Becky Hogg’s metalwork embroidery kits. They are so beautiful and I love taking my time to finish these so I get them perfect.

This kingfisher is on my list this year.

Little Light Stitchery

Specialises in word based embroidery so if you want to practice stitching letters then this is a great choice. You can pick your fabric and customise your quote.

*I’ve not tried any kits from here (yet)

Kirsty Freeman Design

My favourite are the animal designs that are made up in a patchwork style of different stitches.

Oh Sew Bootiful

These kits are all pre-printed onto fabric meaning it is super simple to get started with stitching.

I’ve tried this one but there are plenty of beginner options perfect if you’ve never picked up a needle and thread before.

The Make Arcade

Alongside embroidery kits, they have cross stitch, felt sewing kits and more.

Cotton Clara

The wooden banner embroidery kits are favourites of mine but there is a growing selection of embroidery kits too, including a monthly hoop club.

Wimperis Embroidery

You can get kits as on-offs on on a bi-monthly subscription and get full skeins of floss, the design pre-printed onto fabric and full instructions for the stitches used.

Hawthorn Handmade

A bit like Oh Sew Bootiful, designs come pre-printed onto fabric and tend to be designed more for beginners as they mostly use line stitches.

I’ve tried the kit pictured and alongside the embroidery kits they also have some felt stitch kits too.

Kiriki Press

A Canadian business which has a few UK stockists. Offers beautiful embroidered dolls and stitch samplers.

I’ve stitched this cute cat and a bear.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.