Stitch Showcase: Six-pointed star stitch

The six-pointed star stitch (also known as Dutch cross stitch) is a basic cross stitch with an extra horizontal stitch.

• Make a straight stitch in any direction.

• Imagine you are cutting a pie into 6 parts.

• About one sixth of the way around from the top of the first stitch, bring the needle up through the fabric.

• Take the needle back down diagonally opposite this point. This will create a slim X shape.

• To finish the stitch, create another stitch diagonally over the previous one.

• The length of the stitches used for each layer of the star can be the same or longer or shorter stitches can be used.

Stitch Showcase: Whipped Wheel Stitch

This is a little more complex than the woven wheel stitch as in each round the thread is wrapped around the base stitches. Try experimenting with a half wheel shape to create a fan like effect. Most commonly this is stitched with the woven lines pushed together to create a fully filled shape, but it can also be stitched in an open approach to create a spiders web.

• Start by laying down the base stitches, there can be an odd or even number of base stitches

• Bring the thread up at the centre of the wheel

• Pass the thread under the nearest base stitch and then over and under the base stitch to create a whole wrap around

• Repeat with each base stitch and keep on going round and round until the base stitches are completely covered

• At the end, or if the thread runs out and needs to be changed, take the thread down through the fabric after completing one wrap. It should be slightly under one of the base threads and, if needed start a new thread from the same place.

Stitch Showcase: Burden Stitch

With my houseplant collection of craft kits, I’m always on the look out for stitches that would look good as pot or basket decorations. When I came across this stitch, I knew I wanted to try it out.

• Lay down parallel rows of horizontal stitches (A to B)

• Start at the bottom corner, add a stitch at right angles ending just below the next horizontal stitch (C to D)

• Keep adding vertical stitches, evenly spaced, with enough gap between each to fit a stitch on the next row

• For the next and subsequent rows, place the vertical stitches between those of the previous row.

Want to have a go at this stitch? Keep an eye out for the palm house plant kit that it heading into my shop very soon. Alternatively, you could use this stitch instead of any of those I recommend in the guidance for any of my houseplant kits. You can find the full range of houseplant kits here.

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Stitch Showcase: Fan Stitch

Fan stitch is also commonly called ray stitch, I prefer the name fan as I thing it really describes what it looks like. To me this stitch conjures up images in my mind of large palm leaves and this stitch can be used to represent leaves.

• Create the base of the fan by stitching one long straight stitch. It is generally about half the length of the fan centre line

• Now create the central fan line. It should be in a straight line with the base stitch

• Either draw on guide lines or imagine the shape of a diamond

• Bring the needle through the fabric a few mm down from the top of the centre line and a few mm away from the centre line. Complete this stitch at the point at which the base and centre lines meet.

• Repeat on the other side of the centre line, making a mirror image stitch.

• Repeat for a further two pairs of lines so there are 7 lines in total coming from the base stitch (the centre line and 3 pairs of stitches)

Want to have a go at this stitch? Sign up to my newsletter to hear when the palm houseplant kit that uses a variation of this stitch will be launched.

Stitch Showcase: Scroll stitch

Scroll stitch comprises a knot and a tail and gives a beautiful curved look. Like a lot of stitches it takes a bit of practice to get into the rhythm but once you’ve got the steps you’ll be scrolling onwards.

My top tip if you want to make sure your scrolls are all in the same direction then make sure that you bring the needle through the fabric the same direction each time.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric at the start of the stitch (A)

• At the point where you want the scroll part of the stitch to be placed (B) bring the needle down and up through the fabric as close together as possible

• Leave the needle threaded through the fabric and wrap the floss around the needle from the eye end of the need to the point of the needle

• Pull the needle through slowly to prevent any thread tangles

• Repeat for the rest of the scrolls

Want to try this stitch? It’s not one that is currently included as a recommended stitch for any of my kits but you can switch this for any of the stitches that decorate the pots in the houseplant collection of kits that you can browse here.

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Stitch Showcase: Layered Lazy Daisy Stitch

Layered lazy daisy stitch is a variation of lazy daisy stitch and can be used if you want to fill in the centre of a lazy daisy stitch .

• I recommend working this stitch by creating the inner lazy daisy and then then outer one

• Bring the needle up through the fabric at the point where you want your stitch to start (A)

• Take it back down as close as possible to the original hole

• Gently pull the thread through until you have a small loop - don't pull fully tight at this point

• Push the needle up through the fabric at the point where you want the stitch to end, 5mm is a good length (B)

• Create a tiny straight stitch over the loop so it can’t come loose (C)

• Repeat the steps above creating the start and end points of the stitch just a millimetre away from the first.

Want to try this stitch? It’s not one that is currently included as a recommended stitch for any of my kits but you can switch this for any of the stitches in the floral stitch sample kit that you can find here.

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Stitch Showcase: Double Layer Whipped Backstitch

I came across this variation on whipped backstitch recently and it was a bit of a lightbulb moment. Whipped backstitch is a favourite of mine and with this version you can stitch thicker lines without needing to increase the number of strands of thread being used.

The main difference to whipped backstitch is that rather than laying down just one row of backstitches, you lay down two or three rows as the base to whip around.

• Backstitch is the foundation and then floss is wrapped around each of these stitches to create a cord effect

• Start by backstitching the complete length of the line you want to embroider (see here for how to create a backstitch line)

• Create another row or two alongside the first row

• To wrap the backstitch, bring the needle up at the end of the backstitch length (B)

• Pass the needle under the first backstitch from right to left (E)

• Repeat on the next backstitch again passing from right to left

• Continue until the floss is wrapped around all the backstitches

• To finish push the needle back down through the fabric.

Whipped back stitch is one of my favourite stitches and I recommend it for many of my houseplant kits. You can switch in double layer whipped backstitch to give the plant stems some extra width.

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Stitch Showcase: Open Fishbone Stitch

There are a few different variations on the fishbone stitch, including open fishbone stitch and raised fishbone stitch.

• At the top of the shape bring the needle up close to the centre top

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle, completing the stitch just slightly to the other side of the centre of the shape

• Bring the needle up through the fabric in line with the first stitch but on the other side of the centre line

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle completing the stitch in line with the first one

• Repeat all the way down the shape, alternating sides A to B then C to D.

• Leave a small gap between each pair of stitches and aim to have the same sized gap all the way down the shape.

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Stitch Showcase: Fishbone Stitch

There are a few different variations on the fishbone stitch, including open fishbone stitch and raised fishbone stitch.

• At the top of the shape bring the needle up close to the centre top

• Start by creating a vertical line down the centre of the shape about 1cm long

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle, completing the stitch just slightly to one side of the centre of the shape

• Bring the needle up through the fabric in line with the first stitch but on the other side of the centre line

• Take the needle down through the fabric at a diagonal angle completing the stitch in line with the first one

• Repeat all the way down the shape, alternating sides A to B then C to D.

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Stitch Showcase: Wheatear Stitch

I was inspired to revisit this stitch one August morning when I went for a walk and my way back to the house was to pass through a field of wheat. I also think this stitch looks a bit like a millipede - especially when stitched in black or brown thread!

I look at this stitch as being a combination of an arrowhead stitch and a lazy daisy stitch.

• Start by creating an arrowhead stitch

• Bring the needle up through the fabric a few millimetres below the point of the arrow

• Pass the needle under both arms of the arrow without piercing the fabric

• Take the needle down through the fabric in the same hole it came up through

• If creating a chain of wheatears, then start the next arrow at the base of the loop of the first stitch.

The sample below was stitched with the aim of representing wheat blowing in the wind. The fabric is naturally dyed using turmeric and onion skins.

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Stitch Showcase: Tulip Stitch

I’ve been experimenting with a few stitches that I’ve not tried before - there are so many different stitches.

Tulip stitch is so called as it is meant to look like a tulip flower (I think it looks more like a flower bud!).

When I was designing my free tulip pattern earlier in the year, I considered trying to come up with a design to use tulip stitch but in the end went in a different direction.

It’s based on a lazy daisy (or single chain) stitch, so if you are familiar with these, then this stitch just needs one extra element.

• Create the lazy daisy stitch

• At the bottom of the lazy daisy stitch add a small straight stitch, this will be the stem of the tulip so can be a little bit longer than the straight stitch normally used in a lazy daisy stitch

• To create the leaf element, bring the needle up through the fabric to one side of the tulip

• Pass the needle underneath the ‘stem’ but don’t pierce the fabric

• Take the needle down through the fabric to the other side of the tulip as symmetrically as you can.

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Stitch Showcase: Bead Couching

Beads were my first crafting love affair. One summer holiday I went to a workshop on bead weaving and was hooked. My first craft business was selling bead woven bracelets to classmates at school.

As my interest in beads developed I learned more about the techniques Native Americans used beads to decorate their belongings. One of the techniques used is bead couching.

Couching in embroidery is when small stitches are used to hold a thread on the surface of fabric. The principle with bead couching is very similar.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric (A), thread on a small number of beads (between 3-6 is ideal)

• Take the needle down through the fabric at the end of the row of beads (B) as close to the last bead as possible

• Bring the needle up through the fabric about 2 or 3 beads along and make a tiny stitch over the string of beads to couch the string to the fabric.

An alternative method is:

• Bring the needle up through the fabric (A), thread on a small number of beads (between 3-6 is ideal)

• Take the needle down through the fabric and bring it up through the fabric about 2-3 beads along

• Pass the needle through these two beads and then thread 3 or 4 beads onto the needle and repeat

This technique of passing the needle through the string of beads helps to make sure the beads sit flat to the fabric and there are no gaps between each bead.

If you would like to have a go at bead couching, then why not take a look at my floral sampler kit where you can try this technique alongside a range of other stitches.

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Stitch showcase: Granitos stitch

I see this stitch as a textured variation on a satin stitch. It creates a raised bump on the fabric and looks like a grain (hence the name granitos).

• Create a straight stitch slightly shorter than the finished length of stitch

• Bring the needle up through the fabric as close to the first stitch as possible without going through the same hole. Complete the stitch as close to the first stitch as possible

• Add another stitch the other side of your first stitch so there are three stitches lying right next to each other

• The final step is to layer some stitches over this base. Working at the centre of the base stitches, bring the needle up a tiny bit away from the base stitch to create a little point. Bring the needle back down a tiny bit away from the base stitches at the other end

• Stitch through these exact holes a couple more times to create more of a bump. Try using a different shade of thread for these layering stitches for some definition.

Want to try this stitch? It’s a stitch I suggest using in my lavender kit.

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Four Texture stitches for embroidery

What do I mean by texture stitches? My definition are stitches that stand away from the fabric in some way, that give an added dimension to embroidery that other stitches may not.

Needle Weaving

If you’ve ever woven with a loom then needle weaving is a version of this just on a much smaller scale. It’s also the same technique you’ll use if you need to darn a sock or jumper.

Woven Wheel

This is created by laying down 5 base stitches and then weaving the thread under and over etc until the base stitches can no longer be seen.

Woven Picot

Another woven stitch, the base is created by making a triangle using a pin. The thread is then woven under and over the 3 strands of base stitch.

The picots are attached at the base and the tip can be left free or held down by a tiny stitch.

Turkey Work

This stitch is unlike any other as first create a series of loops which you snip into to create the strands. It can be densely packed or wispy - that’s the beauty of this texture.

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5 filling stitches for embroidery

My default stitch for when I need to fill an area in an embroidery pattern is satin stitch but I don’t particularly enjoy stitching it so I’ve been enjoying trying out a range of different filling stitches.

Satin Stitch

The stitch that is used the most when areas need to be filled in. It is formed of long straight stitches laid close together.

Long and Short Stitch

This is really just satin stitch split into different sections to fill an area. This gives a much more textured effect that satin stitch and is much better for filling larger areas.

Brick Stitch

Lines of backstitch next to each other and slightly offset to create a brick effect. This stitch just makes you want to touch the embroidery.

Chain Stitch

A chain stitch is a series of small loops and can be used to fill areas or in a line.

Leaf Stitch

This is a variation on satin stitch. The stitches are angled towards the centre of the leaf and the angle of the stitch is maintained along the length of the stitch.

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Five isolated stitches for embroidery

I love working with isolated stitches, just picking a colour and placing a stitch where I think it will look great. My heart embroidery kit is designed to work in this way. Here are some of my favourites:

Seed Stitch

A series of straight stitches placed at different angles to create a scattered seed effect. The seeds can be the same length or varied. They can even be overalapped.

French Knot

One of my favourite stitches, it is unlike any other on this list and is great for bringing texture to embroidery but it does take a little bit of practice!

Bullion Knot

If you think French Knot is hard, then beware of bullion stitch. I’ve been stitching it as much as I can lately as practice really helps. And it is worth the wait as it looks great when you’ve perfected it.

Lazy Daisy Stitch

Lazy daisy is just a single chain stitch. It is a series of small loops secured by a tiny straight stitch. It’s great for floral embroidery.

Arrowhead stitch

A simple V shaped stitch which can also be worked in a line of stitches.

The angle of the V can be varied and the addition of a small straight stitch can create a flock of birds!

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Five line stitches for embroidery

Of the many and varied embroidery stitches available this group do exactly what they say, they are stitched in a line.

Line stitches are great for borders, outlines and lettering. Below are five types of line stitches that are great for beginners.

Running stitch

A line of stitches with gaps between each stitch. It’s really useful for gathering the fabric at the back of the hoop. It can also be used on the front of the fabric!

Backstitch

This is probably the stitch you learnt if you did any sewing at school. It’s simply a line of straight stitches.

It is a classic embroidery stitch but I prefer the variation on this - whipped backstitch.

Stem Stitch

As the name suggests, this stitch it is often used for stems but can also be great for lettering. It creates a rope like effect.

Split Stitch

Great for outlining stitching or as an alternative to backstitch. The needle pierces through the thread and ‘splits’ it.

Couching

Couching is when a thread or cord is attached to the fabric using small stitches to hold it in place. The couching stitches can be really close together or much further apart depending on the desired effect.

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Ten embroidery stitches for beginners

There are lots of different styles of embroidery and hundreds of stitches. Here I’m focussing on 10 stitches that I use the most and that I think are most handy to know the majority of projects that you come across. For guidance on how to create each stitch click the link to read more. There are guides to plenty more stitches on the Stitch Showcase series on my blog.

Back Stitch

This is probably the stitch you learnt if you did any sewing at school. It’s simply a line of straight stitches.

Running Stitch

A line of stitches with gaps between each stitch. It’s really useful for gathering the fabric at the back of the hoop.

Seed Stitch

A series of straight stitches placed at different angles to create a scattered seed effect.

Brick Stitch

Lines of backstitch next to each other and slightly offset to create a brick effect.

Satin Stitch

The stitch that is used the most when areas need to be filled in. It is formed of long straight stitches laid close together.

Lazy Daisy & Chain Stitch

I’ve included both of these together as lazy daisy is just a single chain stitch. A chain stitch is a series of small loops and can be used to fill areas or in a line. It's a great stitch for creating flowers too.

Long and Short Stitch

This is really just satin stitch split into different sections to fill an area.

Split Stitch

Great for outlining stitching or as an alternative to backstitch. The needle pierces through the thread and ‘splits’ it.

Stem Stitch

As the name suggests, this stitch it is often used for stems but can also be great for lettering. It creates a rope like effect.

French Knot

One of my favourite stitches, it is unlike any other on this list and is great for bringing texture to embroidery but it does take a little bit of practice!

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Do you outline satin stitch?

My short answer is ‘it depends’. Traditionally satin stitch is used to fill an area with long flat stitches and doesn’t have any outline.

But it can be tricky to get a smooth edge to the filled area of satin stitch whatever your level of embroidery skill or experience. This is because of the way the pattern is placed on the thin warp and weft threads of the fabric. Generally when you create an embroidery stitch the needle pokes through the fabric in the little hole between the warp and weft threads. However, if your transferred pattern means that the ideal placement for the end of the stitch isn’t in one of these gaps it can be tricky to get the stitch in the exact place you need it to be. As a result you may get small patches of the edge of satin stitch that aren’t in the smooth line you were hoping for.

Stitching very short satin stitches can be particularly difficult to stitch as well, often resulting in an uneven edge (see the stems of the fuchsias below!)

Using an outline stitch covers up some of this unevenness to give a smooth looking finish. You can see below two fuchsia flowers, one with no outline and one outlined using a single strand of floss and split stitch. Which of the two do you prefer?

I often also use outline stitches when I’ve got blocks of filled colour next to each other. The filling stitch helps the eye to separate these blocks. I also love using a slightly different shade to help with this definition. The rose you can see at the top of this page is stitched with a slightly darker shade of peach for the outline, that looks great at a distance and close up.

Any line stitch can be used to outline filled in areas. My personal preference is split stitch as you don’t get any gaps between each of the stitches which you sometimes get with backstitch. Couching is another way of outlining but the thread is couched down with tiny stitches which can sometimes distract the eye.

This is one of the very first pieces I embroidered and the outlines and stems are outlined with couching. (It also shows how you shouldn’t give up if you’re stitches aren’t perfect when you first start.)

I always decide whether to add an outline after I’ve completed the satin stitch. But there are some embroiderers who add the outline first and then fill in. I’ve tried this method but I find it tricky to get the satin stitches under rather than through the outline. I’d suggest you have a go and determine which method works best for you.

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How to get your stitches the same size

There are some designs where you want stitches to be an identical size to give a polished finished. But how do you achieve this? Here are five techniques that might help.

By eye

I have to admit this is normally the method I use. I feel fairly confident about judging small distances. I tend to stitch slowly and make sure that with each stitch I’m happy with the position of the needle before I complete a stitch. I also look back at the past few stitches to check I’m happy with the consistency and unpick if anything looks out of place.

For slightly longer stitches I use the needle and my finger to help judge the length of the stitch.

Use a ruler

This can really help with getting the right stitch length but you still need to make sure the position of the needle is accurate.

Working with a ruler can also be a bit cumbersome (even if it is my trusty WWF ruler I’ve had for 25 years).

Draw guidelines

This is a great alternative to to ruler especially if you are able to remove or stitch over the guidelines that you make. It means you don’t need to keep picking up/putting down the ruler with each stitch.

The type of guideline you use will depend on the stitch you are making but if I use this method I tend to use tiny dots rather than full lines as these are easier to stitch over.

In this picture the guidelines are pre-printed onto the fabric which makes it even easier!

Marks on your finger

I saw this ingenious method on Instagram as a tip for stitching blanket stitch. I’ve not tried it myself yet but in taking this photo I did find that I had to hold the hoop a bit funny to get the markings to be where I needed them. A bit of trial and error might be needed for this one!

Evenweave fabric

The clue is in the name - this type of fabric has an even number of warp and weft threads per inch. It means that if you stitch is five holes in length you can count this number of holes for every stitch you make to get stitches of identical length. It’s the fabric used for techniques such as blackwork and hardanger but you can also use high count evenweave fabrics for standard embroidery too (higher count means more warp/weft threads per inch and smaller gaps inbetween).

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