Stitch Showcase: Six-pointed star stitch

The six-pointed star stitch (also known as Dutch cross stitch) is a basic cross stitch with an extra horizontal stitch.

• Make a straight stitch in any direction.

• Imagine you are cutting a pie into 6 parts.

• About one sixth of the way around from the top of the first stitch, bring the needle up through the fabric.

• Take the needle back down diagonally opposite this point. This will create a slim X shape.

• To finish the stitch, create another stitch diagonally over the previous one.

• The length of the stitches used for each layer of the star can be the same or longer or shorter stitches can be used.

How to decide which embroidery stitch to use?

There are hundreds of different embroidery stitches so how do you decide which ones to use in an embroidery project?

Most embroidery patterns will be made up of elements involving lines, areas and details. The type of stitch to pick will depend on the element that you are stitching.

Lines or outlines

You need to consider whether you want a basic look that you get from a stitch such as backstitch or something that makes a feature from the line stitch such as split stitch. I share some of my favourite line stitches here.

Areas that need filling

These require stitches that can cover the fabric. Satin stitch is a popular stitch for filling large areas but I really like long and short stitch which breaks up satin stitch into sections. You can see a selection of filling stitches here.

Details

There are a range of stitches that can be used to highlight a feature or add texture or detail. Texture stitches such as the ones I’ve selected here can add a 3-D feel to the embroidery. Isolated stitches are those that can be stitched on their own (or in groups) to highlight a feature for example the centre of a flower. A range of isolated stitches are listed here.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Five stitches that are great for embroidering words

Adding a quote, message, name or date to a piece of embroidery can add a different dimension and meaning.

Here are some stitches that I recommend using if you want to add text to your project:

Backstitch

This is a universal stitch that can be used for so many purposes. In this example, a simple back stitch was used to create the outline to the letters of the name.

Whipped backstitch

This is rapidly becoming my favourite stitch. The wrapping round the backstitch foundation layer gives a smooth, rope like line of embroidery perfect for lettering.

The green text is stitched in backstitch and you can see the difference that whipping around backstitch really makes.

This banner was a free gift from a Mollie Makes magazine and shows how great this stitch is when adding text.

Split Stitch

In this example, split stitch was used to outline the words. Using yarn rather than embroidery floss, this stitch created a plaited look to the stitching.

French Knots

Words can also be created on an embroidery using the negative space approach. In this case, the letters were created by using French knots outlines. This stitch could also be used to fill in lettering.

Straight Stitch

This is a great way to fill in lettering without having to cover every millimetre of the word in stitches. Just cover the letter with stitches at different angles using different threads (or all the same thread).

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Stitch Showcase: Scroll stitch

Scroll stitch comprises a knot and a tail and gives a beautiful curved look. Like a lot of stitches it takes a bit of practice to get into the rhythm but once you’ve got the steps you’ll be scrolling onwards.

My top tip if you want to make sure your scrolls are all in the same direction then make sure that you bring the needle through the fabric the same direction each time.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric at the start of the stitch (A)

• At the point where you want the scroll part of the stitch to be placed (B) bring the needle down and up through the fabric as close together as possible

• Leave the needle threaded through the fabric and wrap the floss around the needle from the eye end of the need to the point of the needle

• Pull the needle through slowly to prevent any thread tangles

• Repeat for the rest of the scrolls

Want to try this stitch? It’s not one that is currently included as a recommended stitch for any of my kits but you can switch this for any of the stitches that decorate the pots in the houseplant collection of kits that you can browse here.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Stitch Showcase: Double Layer Whipped Backstitch

I came across this variation on whipped backstitch recently and it was a bit of a lightbulb moment. Whipped backstitch is a favourite of mine and with this version you can stitch thicker lines without needing to increase the number of strands of thread being used.

The main difference to whipped backstitch is that rather than laying down just one row of backstitches, you lay down two or three rows as the base to whip around.

• Backstitch is the foundation and then floss is wrapped around each of these stitches to create a cord effect

• Start by backstitching the complete length of the line you want to embroider (see here for how to create a backstitch line)

• Create another row or two alongside the first row

• To wrap the backstitch, bring the needle up at the end of the backstitch length (B)

• Pass the needle under the first backstitch from right to left (E)

• Repeat on the next backstitch again passing from right to left

• Continue until the floss is wrapped around all the backstitches

• To finish push the needle back down through the fabric.

Whipped back stitch is one of my favourite stitches and I recommend it for many of my houseplant kits. You can switch in double layer whipped backstitch to give the plant stems some extra width.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Stitch Showcase: Wheatear Stitch

I was inspired to revisit this stitch one August morning when I went for a walk and my way back to the house was to pass through a field of wheat. I also think this stitch looks a bit like a millipede - especially when stitched in black or brown thread!

I look at this stitch as being a combination of an arrowhead stitch and a lazy daisy stitch.

• Start by creating an arrowhead stitch

• Bring the needle up through the fabric a few millimetres below the point of the arrow

• Pass the needle under both arms of the arrow without piercing the fabric

• Take the needle down through the fabric in the same hole it came up through

• If creating a chain of wheatears, then start the next arrow at the base of the loop of the first stitch.

The sample below was stitched with the aim of representing wheat blowing in the wind. The fabric is naturally dyed using turmeric and onion skins.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Stitch Showcase: Bead Couching

Beads were my first crafting love affair. One summer holiday I went to a workshop on bead weaving and was hooked. My first craft business was selling bead woven bracelets to classmates at school.

As my interest in beads developed I learned more about the techniques Native Americans used beads to decorate their belongings. One of the techniques used is bead couching.

Couching in embroidery is when small stitches are used to hold a thread on the surface of fabric. The principle with bead couching is very similar.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric (A), thread on a small number of beads (between 3-6 is ideal)

• Take the needle down through the fabric at the end of the row of beads (B) as close to the last bead as possible

• Bring the needle up through the fabric about 2 or 3 beads along and make a tiny stitch over the string of beads to couch the string to the fabric.

An alternative method is:

• Bring the needle up through the fabric (A), thread on a small number of beads (between 3-6 is ideal)

• Take the needle down through the fabric and bring it up through the fabric about 2-3 beads along

• Pass the needle through these two beads and then thread 3 or 4 beads onto the needle and repeat

This technique of passing the needle through the string of beads helps to make sure the beads sit flat to the fabric and there are no gaps between each bead.

If you would like to have a go at bead couching, then why not take a look at my floral sampler kit where you can try this technique alongside a range of other stitches.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Five line stitches for embroidery

Of the many and varied embroidery stitches available this group do exactly what they say, they are stitched in a line.

Line stitches are great for borders, outlines and lettering. Below are five types of line stitches that are great for beginners.

Running stitch

A line of stitches with gaps between each stitch. It’s really useful for gathering the fabric at the back of the hoop. It can also be used on the front of the fabric!

Backstitch

This is probably the stitch you learnt if you did any sewing at school. It’s simply a line of straight stitches.

It is a classic embroidery stitch but I prefer the variation on this - whipped backstitch.

Stem Stitch

As the name suggests, this stitch it is often used for stems but can also be great for lettering. It creates a rope like effect.

Split Stitch

Great for outlining stitching or as an alternative to backstitch. The needle pierces through the thread and ‘splits’ it.

Couching

Couching is when a thread or cord is attached to the fabric using small stitches to hold it in place. The couching stitches can be really close together or much further apart depending on the desired effect.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Do you outline satin stitch?

My short answer is ‘it depends’. Traditionally satin stitch is used to fill an area with long flat stitches and doesn’t have any outline.

But it can be tricky to get a smooth edge to the filled area of satin stitch whatever your level of embroidery skill or experience. This is because of the way the pattern is placed on the thin warp and weft threads of the fabric. Generally when you create an embroidery stitch the needle pokes through the fabric in the little hole between the warp and weft threads. However, if your transferred pattern means that the ideal placement for the end of the stitch isn’t in one of these gaps it can be tricky to get the stitch in the exact place you need it to be. As a result you may get small patches of the edge of satin stitch that aren’t in the smooth line you were hoping for.

Stitching very short satin stitches can be particularly difficult to stitch as well, often resulting in an uneven edge (see the stems of the fuchsias below!)

Using an outline stitch covers up some of this unevenness to give a smooth looking finish. You can see below two fuchsia flowers, one with no outline and one outlined using a single strand of floss and split stitch. Which of the two do you prefer?

I often also use outline stitches when I’ve got blocks of filled colour next to each other. The filling stitch helps the eye to separate these blocks. I also love using a slightly different shade to help with this definition. The rose you can see at the top of this page is stitched with a slightly darker shade of peach for the outline, that looks great at a distance and close up.

Any line stitch can be used to outline filled in areas. My personal preference is split stitch as you don’t get any gaps between each of the stitches which you sometimes get with backstitch. Couching is another way of outlining but the thread is couched down with tiny stitches which can sometimes distract the eye.

This is one of the very first pieces I embroidered and the outlines and stems are outlined with couching. (It also shows how you shouldn’t give up if you’re stitches aren’t perfect when you first start.)

I always decide whether to add an outline after I’ve completed the satin stitch. But there are some embroiderers who add the outline first and then fill in. I’ve tried this method but I find it tricky to get the satin stitches under rather than through the outline. I’d suggest you have a go and determine which method works best for you.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Stitch Showcase: Chevron Stitch

Chevron stitch isn’t one that I use that much but it makes a great decorative border stitch.

• it may help to draw two parallel guidelines to create this stitch

• Start by stitching zig zags (A to B, B to C) between the two guidelines if you have drawn them

• It can help to stitch all the diagonal stitches in one direction first and then in the opposite direction as this helps to keep the angle of the stitches even

• To finish the stitch add a bar at the top/bottom of each V (D to E). There should be a little gap between each bar.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Stitch Showcase: Couching With Cross Stitch

Couching with cross stitch is a variation on both couching stitch and Jacobean couching. I like to use it in more modern style embroidery pieces I create contrasting thinner and thicker yarns I am stitching with.

Two different needles might be needed if working with two very different threads

• Lay down the thread to be couched (A to B), essentially this is a long straight stitch

• Take the second thread and work out how far apart the couching stitches will be. I find it useful to consider this before I start stitching to make sure I don’t get to the end find the only solution is to have uneven spacing there.

• To stitch the cross, create a diagonal line at about 45 degree angle from the couched thread (C to D). The second part of the cross is at a 90 degree angle from the first part of the cross (E to F)

• Another method is to lay down the cross stitches first and then thread the couched thread through the crosses, but this technique works best for threads of similar thickness

• It may be easier to stitch the first diagonal of the cross stitch all the way along first before returning and completing the crosses as this will secure the thread being couched. However, I prefer to stitch each cross in turn before moving on so I can control how the crosses look

I like using couching with cross stitch in my more modern pieces of embroidery. In this example I’ve couched some thicker yarn with some thinner yarn and used crosses to hold it in place.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

Stitch Showcase: Arrowhead Stitch

Arrowhead stitch can be worked in rows or isolation. In isolation it is a great alternative to a V shaped detached fly stitch.

• If working as a row, it can help to draw three parallel guide lines, one for each side and one for the centre

• Bring the needle up on one side of the stitch shape and bring it down at the centre point

• Repeat on the other side of the stitch to create a V shape

• If stitching in a row, then aim to space each stitch evenly apart.

As well as being stitched in a row of arrows stacked on top of each other, the arrows can also be stitched side by side to create a zig-zag pattern.

Want to try this stitch? Use it as an alternative to detached fly stitch in my heart stitch sampler kit.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Stitch showcase: Whipped Running Stitch

This stitch uses running stitch as a foundation and then weaves thread in and out of the running stitches on the surface of the fabric. Double whipped running stitch creates a fabulous looped chain-like effect.

• Start by stitching running stitch along the full length of the line

• To add the ‘whipped’ detail, bring the needle up at the end of the last running stitch (A)

• Pass the needle under the first stitch (B)

• Repeat this process making sure that the 'whipping’ thread always moves in the same direction eg always from (C) to (D)

• This will give a great wave pattern which can be pulled tight or left looser.

On the first sample below there are two examples of whipped running stitch. On the right hand side you can see the effect of using a thicker thread for the ‘whipping’ stitch compared to the base running stitch. On the left hand side you can see a much more open wave created by the distance between the individual running stitches.

For the second sample below and in the pink sample at the top of the page you can see the wave of this stitch really clearly. I’ve left the wrapped thread looser to create this wave effect. Sometimes a tiny couching stitch is needed to hold the wave down closer to the fabric.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Stitch Showcase: Double Whipped Running Stitch

This stitch uses running stitch as the foundation, then two threads are woven in and out of the foundation to create a chain-like effect.

• Start by stitching running stitch along the full length of the line you want to embroider

• To add the ‘whipped’ detail, bring the needle up at the end of the last running stitch (A)

• Pass the needle under the first stitch (B)

• Pass it under the next running stitch in the same direction as the first

• Repeat this process until you get to the end of the row of running stitches

• Then work on creating the second ‘whipped’ thread starting in the same point (A)

• For the second pass the thread will be passed under the running stitch in the opposite direction to the first eg if the first thread went from B to C the second thread will go from C to B

• Each thread will create a wave pattern - the whipped threads can be pulled tighter or left looser as a wave.

In the example below the final row of stitching is double whipped running stitch, you can see the two ‘whipped’ strands cross over just under the running stitch, it is this that gives the appearance of a chain.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one I suggest in my embellished bauble kit, which is released each Christmas.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Stitch Showcase: Blanket Stitch

Blanket stitch is most frequently used as an edging stitch because when stitched carefully it can look identical on both the right and wrong side. It is normally used on fabrics that don’t fray very much such as felt or blankets. As an edging stitch it can be the foundation for a further decoration such as a crochet border. It can also be worked flat as a decorative stitch.

• Start by pushing the needle from the back to the front of the fabric, then bring the needle over the top of the edge and through the fabric from back to front again (A)

• Bring the needle through the same hole (A) from back to front. Pass the needle under the thread from the first stitch

• Bring the needle through the fabric (B) from back to front.

• There will be a little loop lying on the top edge of the fabric. Pass the needle under this loop (C)

• Repeat the action of taking the needle over the top of the edge and push from back to front, catching the loop each time. You will start to see a bar of thread over the edge.

• For the neatest blanket stitch look at where you are pushing the needle through from the back as well as where it appears at the front.

As well as a flat edge, blanket stitch can also be used on a soft sculpture to join different pieces. To get the neatest finish I find that stitching the stitches the same distance apart as depth from the edge eg 2mm down from the edge and stitches 2mm apart.

Want to try this stitch? It’s suggested as part of the embellished bauble kit that is available at Christmas.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Stitch Showcase: Brick Stitch

Brick stitch is simply rows of back stitch next to each other and staggered, like bricks in the wall.

• Start by creating a row of backstitch (see here for a tutorial on backstitch)

• To create the next row, start the stitch about half way along the first (B)

• Complete the stitch, making sure the length of the stitch is consistent with the previous row (A)

• Create the next stitch again about halfway along the row above (C) and complete the stitch (B)

This canvas work sampler shows tow different examples of brick stitches, the light brown shows a block of bricks using longer stitches. Whilst the grey section the bricks are stitched in a diagonal direction.

The close up of one of my intuitive embroidery pieces shows two further examples of brick stitch. Can you spot them? A light green section in the centre of the photo shows three long, thin rows, whilst just below this there is a mustard coloured triangular section where brick stitch is used more as a filling stitch.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one I suggest as part of my monstera kit.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Stitch Showcase: Stem Stitch

For a long time I didn’t really bother with stem stitch, I preferred using plain old backstitch or occasionally split stitch but I gave it another go recently and it’s grown on me, but I have to admit I only really use it when stitching plants! This is basically a back stitch but with the point at which we start the next stitch in the sequence altered.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric

• Take the needle down through fabric about 5mm along, but don't pull the thread completely through - leave a small loop.

• Bring the needle back up equal distance from each end of the stitch and in line with each hole. Gently pull through the loop until the stitch lies flat on the felt.

• Create another stitch a few millimetres along so that the total stitch length from start to finish is the same as your first stitch. Again create a loop and push the needle back through in between and in line with the previous holes

• It is important that each time you bring the needle back up you keep the loop of thread on the same side of the needle to create the wrapped effect of stem stitch.

The leaves in the header picture show that varying the number of threads for different parts of leaf stems gives strong centre vein but the rest of the leaf has a more delicate look.

Want to try this stitch? It’s a stitch I suggest using in my monstera kit, flamingo flower kit, floral sampler and sunflower sampler.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Stitch Showcase: Whipped Backstitch

Whipped backstitch is a stitch that I’ve used for a lot of projects, it’s great for creating a line of stitching where you don’t want to see the individual stitches for example, plant stems or lettering.

• Backstitch is the foundation and then floss is wrapped around each of these stitches to create a cord effect

• Start by backstitching the complete length of the line you want to embroider (see here for how to create a backstitch line)

• To wrap the backstitch, bring the needle up at the end of the backstitch length (A)

• Pass the needle under the first backstitch from right to left (B)

• Repeat on the next backstitch again passing from right to left (C to D)

• Continue until the floss is wrapped around all the backstitches

• To finish push the needle back down through the fabric.

You can vary the number of strands used for the foundation and the wrapping part of the stitch. This in progress shot shows the foundation backstitch with one strand and the wrapping thread is all 6 strands. In this banner the script writing is done in whipped backstitch and you can’t see the stitches just beautiful raised texture writing.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one I suggest using in my elephant ear plant kit.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Stitch Showcase: Split Stitch

When I first encounter split stitch I wasn’t a big fan but as I’ve used it in more projects it’s one I now love. At its basic level it is a backstitch with a bit of variation in where you bring up the needle to start each stitch. It’s a great stitch for any botanical based embroidery, so if you are a plant lover then this is one to practice.

• Create a stitch as if you were starting running or back stitch (A to B)

• Then bring the needle back up through the fabric about 1mm along the stitch you just made (C)

• Carefully poke the needle through the fabric and through the thread so that you 'split' the strand/strands evenly

• Complete the stitch (D) making it the same length overall as the first stitch.

• This method can be a bit tricky so an alternative method that I find a bit easier is to create the first stitch, then bring the needle up through the fabric at the point where you want the next stitch to end (D). Then poke it back down through the thread to split the strand/strands into two even parts (C).

• This stitch can be worked with just one strand of thread. If working with multiple strands it is best to have an even number otherwise there is a slightly lopsided split

Split stitch can be used in different ways in the same piece. In this tree blossom embroidery there are some parts stitched using one strand and split stitch, other parts use two-stranded split stitch and other parts has lines of split stitch next to each other to create a thicker branch.

Split stitch can works well with single strands of thicker thread to create a plaited effect as shown in this word art embroidery.

Want to try this stitch? It’s a stitch I recommend in my elephant ear plant kit, spring blossom kit, snowdrop kit and crocus kit.

Sign up to my email newsletter to get a monthly free embroidery pattern and a round up of Stitch Showcase blogs.

Stitch Showcase: Chain Stitch

Chain stitch is one of my favourite embroidery stitches as it can add some wonderful texture to a piece of work. It can be stitched in a single row or closer together to create a basket effect. A single chain stitch on its own is know as a lazy daisy stitch.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric (A) then back down as close as possible to the original hole (B)

• Gently pull the thread until there is a small loop - don't pull fully tight

• Push the needle up through the fabric where the stitch should end (C) when pushing the needle back up make sure it goes through the centre of the loop

• Gently pull the needle all the way through so that the loop ends up the same length as the stitch and lies flat

• To create the next stitch push the needle back down as close as possible to the spot it came up (D), this should be inside the stitch just created

• Repeat until the chain is the desired length

• At the end of the chain, secure the final chain by stitching the last stitch over the end of the loop rather than inside it (E & F)

Chain stitch can be used as a filling stitch and looks great when several rows are stitched together, each row in the opposite direction.

It can also be stitched as a single chain to create an outline such as in this free kit from Mollie Makes designed by Zeena Shah. In this example, I also filled the chain stitches with a straight stitch in a contrasting colour to fill the centre of the chains.

Want to try this stitch? It’s a stitch I suggest using in my flamingo flower kit.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.