Stitch Showcase: Couching With Cross Stitch

Couching with cross stitch is a variation on both couching stitch and Jacobean couching. I like to use it in more modern style embroidery pieces I create contrasting thinner and thicker yarns I am stitching with.

Two different needles might be needed if working with two very different threads

• Lay down the thread to be couched (A to B), essentially this is a long straight stitch

• Take the second thread and work out how far apart the couching stitches will be. I find it useful to consider this before I start stitching to make sure I don’t get to the end find the only solution is to have uneven spacing there.

• To stitch the cross, create a diagonal line at about 45 degree angle from the couched thread (C to D). The second part of the cross is at a 90 degree angle from the first part of the cross (E to F)

• Another method is to lay down the cross stitches first and then thread the couched thread through the crosses, but this technique works best for threads of similar thickness

• It may be easier to stitch the first diagonal of the cross stitch all the way along first before returning and completing the crosses as this will secure the thread being couched. However, I prefer to stitch each cross in turn before moving on so I can control how the crosses look

I like using couching with cross stitch in my more modern pieces of embroidery. In this example I’ve couched some thicker yarn with some thinner yarn and used crosses to hold it in place.

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Stitch Showcase: Algerian Eye Stitch

This is one of a group of stitches that creates a star shape and because of the isolated points it can be tricky to make it look even. Drawing a two guides circle may be useful if you want a perfect star shape, but I tend to stitch by eye and use the needle to help measure the length of each point.

• I find it easier to work by stitching from the outside edge to the inner edge

• Bring the needle up through the fabric at the appropriate starting point

• Create the first arm of the star shape (A), then work across on the opposite side of the star (B) so there are two stitches of even length in a line, wth a gap in the centre

• Work the next two stitches at right angles to the first (C & D)

• Then fill in the third and forth lines in between the first two lines (E & F, G & H)

I used Algerian eye stitch in my floral sampler kit as the centre point for one of the flowers, but I also like combining it randomly with other star shaped stitches such as in this sampler.

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Stitch Showcase: Arrowhead Stitch

Arrowhead stitch can be worked in rows or isolation. In isolation it is a great alternative to a V shaped detached fly stitch.

• If working as a row, it can help to draw three parallel guide lines, one for each side and one for the centre

• Bring the needle up on one side of the stitch shape and bring it down at the centre point

• Repeat on the other side of the stitch to create a V shape

• If stitching in a row, then aim to space each stitch evenly apart.

As well as being stitched in a row of arrows stacked on top of each other, the arrows can also be stitched side by side to create a zig-zag pattern.

Want to try this stitch? Use it as an alternative to detached fly stitch in my heart stitch sampler kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Turkey Work

Turkey work is a great stitch to add some texture to a piece of embroidery. This stitch works well with multiple strands are used together, they can be the same colour or strands of different shades

• Bring the thread down through the fabric (B) from the top leaving a tail (A)

• Push the needle up through the fabric close to the first hole (C)

• Take the needle back down through the fabric but leaving a loop. A finger or a pen can be used to loop around to create loops of the same diameter

• For the next stitch, create this so that it lies across the end of one loop (D) and the beginning of the next (E). pull the thread tight to the fabric ie don’t make a loop

• Repeat creating a loop stitch followed by a standard stitch

• Each loop can be stitched in rows or randomly to fill an area

• It might be necessary to hold the loops already made out of the way so they don’t get caught

• Once all the loops have been made snip through them to give the ‘hairy’ texture

• The strands can be trimmed down to the same length or left uneven depending on the style of the finished piece.

Modern embroidery artists such as Salt Stitches and Katy Biele use this stitch frequently in their work. This picture is of a Salt Stitches DIY kit that I embroidered.

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Stitch Showcase: Detached Fly Stitch

Fly stitch is a V or Y shaped stitch that can be stitched in rows, columns or as single stitches (called detached fly stitch).

• Bring the needle up through the fabric (A)

• Take the needle down through the fabric at the point you want the width of the stitch to be (B)

• Push it up through the fabric at the bottom point of the V, but don't pull the needle through the fabric (C)

• Hook the thread around the point of the needle and then pull the needle through to form the V shape

• Complete the stitch by creating a tiny straight stitch to secure the V (D)

• Or create a Y shape by making a longer straight stitch.

I like to use detached fly stitch as part of a mix of different stitches and it is one of the stitches I’ve included in my heart stitch sampler kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Double Cross Stitch

Double cross stitch is a simple way to add a star shape to your embroidery - it creates an eight-pointed star.

• Double cross stitch uses straight stitches in four different orientations. to create the eight-pointed star.

• To start make a straight stitch in any direction, then make another stitch of the same length at right angles to create a plus sign.

• To finish the stitch, create another cross diagonally over the first and then one final stitch in the opposite direction to make an 8 pointed star.

This stitch is most often used as an isolated stitch such as in the pink firework at the bottom of this sampler. However, it can also be stitched in a row to create a decorative border such as in the second sampler which shows how different weights of thread can impact the finished look.

Want to try this stitch - it’s one of the stitches I recommend using in my heart stitch sampler kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Woven Picot Stitch

Woven picot stitches give texture and depth to a piece of embroidery and are often used as leaf or petal detail on raised embroidery.

• A pin is needed to make this stitch - the pin should be placed through the fabric so as where the pin goes through the fabric is where the top of the stitch will be and where it comes back through the fabric is where the base of the stitch will be.

• I also recommend having a much longer length of thread than normal as making these picot stitches is hungry on the thread.

• Bring the threaded needle up through the fabric aligned with the lower part of the pin, the distance away from the pin governs the width of the picot.

• Loop the thread around the top of the pin and pass the needle back through the fabric in line with the lower part of the pin and the same width away from the pin as the other side you should have an inverted V shape.

• Bring the needle back up through the fabric as close to the lower part of the pin (the centre of the V as possible) and loop it around the top of the pin to create a second V.

• Rather than pass the needle back through the fabric, start the weaving at the point of the V.

• Pass the needle under the right thread, over the centre thread and under the left thread.

• Then working back in the other direction over the left thread (to loop round it), under the centre thread and over the right thread.

• Keep on working under/over/under and over/under/over in opposite directions.

• Once the weaving has reached the bottom of the picot, pass the needle back through the fabric and secure.

• Remove the pin to release your finished picot.

If the weaving is too loose, use the needle to push the weaving close together. The fewer strands of thread used for the weaving, the more rows will be needed.

The finished picots can be left loose so they can be moved back and forwards or a tiny stitch can hold them in place.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one of the stitches I suggest for my floral sampler kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Herringbone Stitch

Herringbone stitch is a variation on a cross stitch - the point of the cross is off centre so that there are two long legs and two short legs off the cross ie it’s a cross stitch at a jaunty angle.

• If you are stitching this as a border then you might want to draw two parallel lines to guide your stitching. If you are using it as an isolated or textural stitch then this is not necessary.

• Bring the needle up though the fabric and then take it at a diagonal and pass the needle down through the fabric and then up a little further along (you can do this in one motion or up and then down).

• To complete the stitch take it diagonally down to create a (wonky) cross.

Most commonly you’ll see this stitch worked in a line to create a border, but I prefer to use it as isolated stitches, varying the size and point of cross. Layering the stitches using different thread gives a great textured look.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one of the stitches I suggest in my sunflower sampler kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Bullion Knot

This is one of the trickiest stitches in embroidery but I’ve been stitching it as much as I can lately as, much like the French knot, practice really helps.

There are two methods for creating a bullion knot. The method I prefer isn’t the one that you’ll find in most stitch tutorials. I like it as I with the traditional method my knots are often thicker at one end than the other, but give them both a try and see which works for you

Traditional method

• Create a straight stitch but leave a loop when you complete the stitch, then poke the needle through the fabric at the start of the stitch, but don't push it all the way through.

• Using the loop, wrap the loop around the needle enough times to match the length of the stitch.

• Carefully pull the rest of the loop so the needle lies flat, then push the needle through (holding onto the wraps) and finally complete the stitch.

My method

• Bring the needle up through the fabric at the point you want the knot to start, then pass it back through the fabric where you want the stitch to end, don't pull the thread all the way through.

• Push the needle back up through the fabric at the starting point of the stitch, but don't push it all the way through. Wrap the thread around the needle enough times so the wraps are the same length as the stitch will be, you can flip the needle down to check.

• Using your thumb to hold the wraps in place, pull the needle back slightly so you can push the tip of the needle through the fabric at the end point. Pull the excess thread on the top of the fabric through to the back then pull the needle through carefully to complete the stitch.

In both these examples below, the bullion knot has been used as an isolated stitch - in combination with other stitches and on its own.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one of the stitches I suggest in my heart stitch sampler kit and my floral stitch sampler kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Jacobean Couching

Jacobean couching is a stitch that originated in the 17th Century and requires precision and time to get both the laid down threads and the cross stitches that couch them down lying evenly.

• Start off by laying down the vertical threads evenly spaced across the area. (The closer together the threads the more couching you'll need to do.)

• To help get each stitch straight lie the thread on top of the felt and get the correct angle before you complete the stitch.

• Now repeat the same process for laying down horizontal threads. The effect looks best if these are spaced out at the same distance as the vertical threads but play around with the spacing for different effects.

• The intersection of each vertical and horizontal thread is where a small cross stitch will be added to secure or couch the threads.

• To add these, start by bringing the needle up at the top left of the intersection and then taking it down over the threads at the bottom right to complete a half cross stitch. To complete the cross, work from top right to bottom left.

• My preference is to complete all the half crosses first and then go back and complete the rest of the cross, but you can complete each cross before moving on. I'd suggest you always work the first part of the cross in the same direction for the best finish.

• You can work methodically from one side to another. Alternatively work every few stitches on each row to tack the threads in place which helps maintain the even spacing, before going back and filling in the gaps.

This is a great stitch to experiment with different thread thicknesses and colour combinations. The sample below is stitched with one strand of embroidery floss and a single strand of metallic sewing thread.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one that I suggest using in my monstera kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Cross Stitch

Cross stitch is most commonly worked on Aida or even weave fabric which has an regular number of weft and warp threads to allow the creation of even sized stitching, however it can also be used in free form embroidery as well.

• Bring the needle up at the top left of the stitch (A)

• Make a stitch diagonally to the bottom right corner (B)

• Bring the needle up at the top right (C)

• Take it down through the fabric at the bottom left corner (D)

• If you are stitching a panel of cross stitches you can stitch the first half of the stitch (A to B) for the whole area then work back over the area completing the crosses (C to D)

• However you stitch make sure that you always work the first part of the stitch the same way to create a nice even finish.

The first picture shows a traditional use of cross stitch - it fills an area and is worked on Aida. The second picture shows that as well as being used to fill areas, it can also be used as a single isolated stitch to couch other threads.

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Stitch showcase: Whipped Running Stitch

This stitch uses running stitch as a foundation and then weaves thread in and out of the running stitches on the surface of the fabric. Double whipped running stitch creates a fabulous looped chain-like effect.

• Start by stitching running stitch along the full length of the line

• To add the ‘whipped’ detail, bring the needle up at the end of the last running stitch (A)

• Pass the needle under the first stitch (B)

• Repeat this process making sure that the 'whipping’ thread always moves in the same direction eg always from (C) to (D)

• This will give a great wave pattern which can be pulled tight or left looser.

On the first sample below there are two examples of whipped running stitch. On the right hand side you can see the effect of using a thicker thread for the ‘whipping’ stitch compared to the base running stitch. On the left hand side you can see a much more open wave created by the distance between the individual running stitches.

For the second sample below and in the pink sample at the top of the page you can see the wave of this stitch really clearly. I’ve left the wrapped thread looser to create this wave effect. Sometimes a tiny couching stitch is needed to hold the wave down closer to the fabric.

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Stitch Showcase: Double Whipped Running Stitch

This stitch uses running stitch as the foundation, then two threads are woven in and out of the foundation to create a chain-like effect.

• Start by stitching running stitch along the full length of the line you want to embroider

• To add the ‘whipped’ detail, bring the needle up at the end of the last running stitch (A)

• Pass the needle under the first stitch (B)

• Pass it under the next running stitch in the same direction as the first

• Repeat this process until you get to the end of the row of running stitches

• Then work on creating the second ‘whipped’ thread starting in the same point (A)

• For the second pass the thread will be passed under the running stitch in the opposite direction to the first eg if the first thread went from B to C the second thread will go from C to B

• Each thread will create a wave pattern - the whipped threads can be pulled tighter or left looser as a wave.

In the example below the final row of stitching is double whipped running stitch, you can see the two ‘whipped’ strands cross over just under the running stitch, it is this that gives the appearance of a chain.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one I suggest in my embellished bauble kit, which is released each Christmas.

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Stitch Showcase: Blanket Stitch

Blanket stitch is most frequently used as an edging stitch because when stitched carefully it can look identical on both the right and wrong side. It is normally used on fabrics that don’t fray very much such as felt or blankets. As an edging stitch it can be the foundation for a further decoration such as a crochet border. It can also be worked flat as a decorative stitch.

• Start by pushing the needle from the back to the front of the fabric, then bring the needle over the top of the edge and through the fabric from back to front again (A)

• Bring the needle through the same hole (A) from back to front. Pass the needle under the thread from the first stitch

• Bring the needle through the fabric (B) from back to front.

• There will be a little loop lying on the top edge of the fabric. Pass the needle under this loop (C)

• Repeat the action of taking the needle over the top of the edge and push from back to front, catching the loop each time. You will start to see a bar of thread over the edge.

• For the neatest blanket stitch look at where you are pushing the needle through from the back as well as where it appears at the front.

As well as a flat edge, blanket stitch can also be used on a soft sculpture to join different pieces. To get the neatest finish I find that stitching the stitches the same distance apart as depth from the edge eg 2mm down from the edge and stitches 2mm apart.

Want to try this stitch? It’s suggested as part of the embellished bauble kit that is available at Christmas.

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Stitch Showcase: Brick Stitch

Brick stitch is simply rows of back stitch next to each other and staggered, like bricks in the wall.

• Start by creating a row of backstitch (see here for a tutorial on backstitch)

• To create the next row, start the stitch about half way along the first (B)

• Complete the stitch, making sure the length of the stitch is consistent with the previous row (A)

• Create the next stitch again about halfway along the row above (C) and complete the stitch (B)

This canvas work sampler shows tow different examples of brick stitches, the light brown shows a block of bricks using longer stitches. Whilst the grey section the bricks are stitched in a diagonal direction.

The close up of one of my intuitive embroidery pieces shows two further examples of brick stitch. Can you spot them? A light green section in the centre of the photo shows three long, thin rows, whilst just below this there is a mustard coloured triangular section where brick stitch is used more as a filling stitch.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one I suggest as part of my monstera kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Stem Stitch

For a long time I didn’t really bother with stem stitch, I preferred using plain old backstitch or occasionally split stitch but I gave it another go recently and it’s grown on me, but I have to admit I only really use it when stitching plants! This is basically a back stitch but with the point at which we start the next stitch in the sequence altered.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric

• Take the needle down through fabric about 5mm along, but don't pull the thread completely through - leave a small loop.

• Bring the needle back up equal distance from each end of the stitch and in line with each hole. Gently pull through the loop until the stitch lies flat on the felt.

• Create another stitch a few millimetres along so that the total stitch length from start to finish is the same as your first stitch. Again create a loop and push the needle back through in between and in line with the previous holes

• It is important that each time you bring the needle back up you keep the loop of thread on the same side of the needle to create the wrapped effect of stem stitch.

The leaves in the header picture show that varying the number of threads for different parts of leaf stems gives strong centre vein but the rest of the leaf has a more delicate look.

Want to try this stitch? It’s a stitch I suggest using in my monstera kit, flamingo flower kit, floral sampler and sunflower sampler.

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Stitch Showcase: Needle Weaving

If you’ve ever woven with a loom then needle weaving is a version of this just on a much smaller scale. It’s also the same technique you’ll use if you need to darn a sock or jumper.

• To start you need to create the warp threads, these should be long, parallel stitches in one direction (A to B).

• The steps for satin stitch here can be used for creating the warp threads

• The warp threads don’t have to be laid tightly together, but if they are spaced, make sure the spacing is even

• The weaving can be done in the same thread or a different one, the weft thread is passed over and under the warp threads (C to D)

• On the next row it is passed under and over ie the opposite way.

• Different textures can be created by passing over or under different numbers of threads or using the same pattern on multiple rows.

Normally all the weaving is done above the surface, but I’ve found that I maintain tension better and don’t get a pulling effect if I anchor the end of each row with a tiny stitch through the fabric.

The blue sampler shown in the header picture uses two different thicknesses of thread with the weft thread the thicker one, this creates a much tighter weave and didn’t need to anchor at the end of each row because of this.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one I suggest using in my elephant ear plant kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Lazy Daisy Stitch

Lazy daisy stitch is also known as a single chain stitch, and that’s all this stitch is - one chain stitch. It’s great to use to create the petals of flowers.

• Bring the needle up through the fabric at the point where you want your stitch to start (A)

• Take it back down as close as possible to the original hole (B)

• Gently pull the thread through until you have a small loop - don't pull fully tight at this point

• Push the needle up through the fabric at the point where you want the stitch to end, 5mm is a good length (C)

• Create a tiny straight stitch over the loop so it can’t come loose (D).

Lazy daisy stitches can be worked randomly, but commonly they are placed in a circle to form a flower.

Want to try this stitch? It is one I recommend using in my lavender embroidery kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Whipped Backstitch

Whipped backstitch is a stitch that I’ve used for a lot of projects, it’s great for creating a line of stitching where you don’t want to see the individual stitches for example, plant stems or lettering.

• Backstitch is the foundation and then floss is wrapped around each of these stitches to create a cord effect

• Start by backstitching the complete length of the line you want to embroider (see here for how to create a backstitch line)

• To wrap the backstitch, bring the needle up at the end of the backstitch length (A)

• Pass the needle under the first backstitch from right to left (B)

• Repeat on the next backstitch again passing from right to left (C to D)

• Continue until the floss is wrapped around all the backstitches

• To finish push the needle back down through the fabric.

You can vary the number of strands used for the foundation and the wrapping part of the stitch. This in progress shot shows the foundation backstitch with one strand and the wrapping thread is all 6 strands. In this banner the script writing is done in whipped backstitch and you can’t see the stitches just beautiful raised texture writing.

Want to try this stitch? It’s one I suggest using in my elephant ear plant kit.

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Stitch Showcase: Long and Short Stitch

Long and short stitch is a great way to fill large areas if satin stitch isn’t suitable or you want a more textured look. It is a variation on satin stitch, where the area is covered using one long stitch, but instead of covering the whole area with one stitch you are breaking that one stitch up into several sections of random lengths. It is the different lengths that add the texture.

• Starting at one edge make stitches of varying lengths (A to B).The aim is to make sure that stitches next to each other don't start and finish in line.

• Once one side of the area has been stitched then move on to fill the next section (C to B)

• It is easiest to work long and short stitch in sections. Try to divide the area to be filled into two or three sections. The header picture is stitched in two sections, the light green and the dark green

• If stitching in three sections then stitch the outer and inner edges first before filling in the middle.

The picture below shows long and short stitch in progress and shows the texture that can be created when using one solid colour.

Lucy Freeman uses a lot of long and short stitch in her colourful botanical embroideries. This is a piece I stitched from one of her kits. It is stitched with all 6 strands of embroidery floss using long and short stitch. The green outer edge and light pink inner edge are stitched first before the central bright pink.

Want to try this stitch? It is one that I recommend using in my crocus embroidery kit.

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