5 filling stitches for embroidery

My default stitch for when I need to fill an area in an embroidery pattern is satin stitch but I don’t particularly enjoy stitching it so I’ve been enjoying trying out a range of different filling stitches.

Satin Stitch

The stitch that is used the most when areas need to be filled in. It is formed of long straight stitches laid close together.

Long and Short Stitch

This is really just satin stitch split into different sections to fill an area. This gives a much more textured effect that satin stitch and is much better for filling larger areas.

Brick Stitch

Lines of backstitch next to each other and slightly offset to create a brick effect. This stitch just makes you want to touch the embroidery.

Chain Stitch

A chain stitch is a series of small loops and can be used to fill areas or in a line.

Leaf Stitch

This is a variation on satin stitch. The stitches are angled towards the centre of the leaf and the angle of the stitch is maintained along the length of the stitch.

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Five isolated stitches for embroidery

I love working with isolated stitches, just picking a colour and placing a stitch where I think it will look great. My heart embroidery kit is designed to work in this way. Here are some of my favourites:

Seed Stitch

A series of straight stitches placed at different angles to create a scattered seed effect. The seeds can be the same length or varied. They can even be overalapped.

French Knot

One of my favourite stitches, it is unlike any other on this list and is great for bringing texture to embroidery but it does take a little bit of practice!

Bullion Knot

If you think French Knot is hard, then beware of bullion stitch. I’ve been stitching it as much as I can lately as practice really helps. And it is worth the wait as it looks great when you’ve perfected it.

Lazy Daisy Stitch

Lazy daisy is just a single chain stitch. It is a series of small loops secured by a tiny straight stitch. It’s great for floral embroidery.

Arrowhead stitch

A simple V shaped stitch which can also be worked in a line of stitches.

The angle of the V can be varied and the addition of a small straight stitch can create a flock of birds!

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Five line stitches for embroidery

Of the many and varied embroidery stitches available this group do exactly what they say, they are stitched in a line.

Line stitches are great for borders, outlines and lettering. Below are five types of line stitches that are great for beginners.

Running stitch

A line of stitches with gaps between each stitch. It’s really useful for gathering the fabric at the back of the hoop. It can also be used on the front of the fabric!

Backstitch

This is probably the stitch you learnt if you did any sewing at school. It’s simply a line of straight stitches.

It is a classic embroidery stitch but I prefer the variation on this - whipped backstitch.

Stem Stitch

As the name suggests, this stitch it is often used for stems but can also be great for lettering. It creates a rope like effect.

Split Stitch

Great for outlining stitching or as an alternative to backstitch. The needle pierces through the thread and ‘splits’ it.

Couching

Couching is when a thread or cord is attached to the fabric using small stitches to hold it in place. The couching stitches can be really close together or much further apart depending on the desired effect.

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Ten embroidery stitches for beginners

There are lots of different styles of embroidery and hundreds of stitches. Here I’m focussing on 10 stitches that I use the most and that I think are most handy to know the majority of projects that you come across. For guidance on how to create each stitch click the link to read more. There are guides to plenty more stitches on the Stitch Showcase series on my blog.

Back Stitch

This is probably the stitch you learnt if you did any sewing at school. It’s simply a line of straight stitches.

Running Stitch

A line of stitches with gaps between each stitch. It’s really useful for gathering the fabric at the back of the hoop.

Seed Stitch

A series of straight stitches placed at different angles to create a scattered seed effect.

Brick Stitch

Lines of backstitch next to each other and slightly offset to create a brick effect.

Satin Stitch

The stitch that is used the most when areas need to be filled in. It is formed of long straight stitches laid close together.

Lazy Daisy & Chain Stitch

I’ve included both of these together as lazy daisy is just a single chain stitch. A chain stitch is a series of small loops and can be used to fill areas or in a line. It's a great stitch for creating flowers too.

Long and Short Stitch

This is really just satin stitch split into different sections to fill an area.

Split Stitch

Great for outlining stitching or as an alternative to backstitch. The needle pierces through the thread and ‘splits’ it.

Stem Stitch

As the name suggests, this stitch it is often used for stems but can also be great for lettering. It creates a rope like effect.

French Knot

One of my favourite stitches, it is unlike any other on this list and is great for bringing texture to embroidery but it does take a little bit of practice!

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Do you outline satin stitch?

My short answer is ‘it depends’. Traditionally satin stitch is used to fill an area with long flat stitches and doesn’t have any outline.

But it can be tricky to get a smooth edge to the filled area of satin stitch whatever your level of embroidery skill or experience. This is because of the way the pattern is placed on the thin warp and weft threads of the fabric. Generally when you create an embroidery stitch the needle pokes through the fabric in the little hole between the warp and weft threads. However, if your transferred pattern means that the ideal placement for the end of the stitch isn’t in one of these gaps it can be tricky to get the stitch in the exact place you need it to be. As a result you may get small patches of the edge of satin stitch that aren’t in the smooth line you were hoping for.

Stitching very short satin stitches can be particularly difficult to stitch as well, often resulting in an uneven edge (see the stems of the fuchsias below!)

Using an outline stitch covers up some of this unevenness to give a smooth looking finish. You can see below two fuchsia flowers, one with no outline and one outlined using a single strand of floss and split stitch. Which of the two do you prefer?

I often also use outline stitches when I’ve got blocks of filled colour next to each other. The filling stitch helps the eye to separate these blocks. I also love using a slightly different shade to help with this definition. The rose you can see at the top of this page is stitched with a slightly darker shade of peach for the outline, that looks great at a distance and close up.

Any line stitch can be used to outline filled in areas. My personal preference is split stitch as you don’t get any gaps between each of the stitches which you sometimes get with backstitch. Couching is another way of outlining but the thread is couched down with tiny stitches which can sometimes distract the eye.

This is one of the very first pieces I embroidered and the outlines and stems are outlined with couching. (It also shows how you shouldn’t give up if you’re stitches aren’t perfect when you first start.)

I always decide whether to add an outline after I’ve completed the satin stitch. But there are some embroiderers who add the outline first and then fill in. I’ve tried this method but I find it tricky to get the satin stitches under rather than through the outline. I’d suggest you have a go and determine which method works best for you.

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Five ways to display your finished embroidery hoops

So you’ve finished your embroidery and want to proudly show it off? Here are five easy ways to display hour embroidery in your home.

Nail in the wall

This is a quick way to hang up your hoops but if you want to move your hoops somewhere else then those little holes will need fixing! I have a few nails that stay in place and I just switch the hoops that I hand on them.

Removable hooks

These hooks are a bit of magic. You can stick them to your wall and then reportedly you can remove them without them leaving any marks.

I’ve used the hooks and they are so simple to put up but I’ve not tried removing any as yet as I’m happy where they are at the moment!

These are the hooks I recommend.

(Note: This is an affiliate link which means that I get a small amount of money if you buy using this link.)

Tape

I have to admit this isn’t my favourite - I just can’t get the hoops to stay on the way with tape alone. But I have had success with lighter items such as this banner.

If you are going to try this method with a hoop, you need to add a hanging thread through the screw. I’d also recommend adding a knot to the end of that hanging thread as I’ve found that without a knot the weight of the hoop means it just slides straight through the tape.

Mini easel (or plate stand)

I spotted this mini easel in Flying Tiger (complete with a canvas) and thought it would work really well to display embroidery hoops on a shelf and I think it looks great. It also means that it’s super simple to switch the hoops around .

On a shelf/picture shelf

Many of my hoops are simply propped up on a shelf. It the quickest and easiest way to get your hoop on display (providing you don’t have to put the shelf up first!) but it does take a knack to get them to sit upright.

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How to add the wow factor to a finished embroidery hoop

The most popular way of displaying a finished piece of embroidery is to leave it in the hoop it was stitched in. A standard bamboo hoop looks great without any added effort, but here are five simple ways to add a wow factor to your finished hoop.

Remove the outer hoop

This is my current favourite, it gives a great clean edge to the piece and I think it makes the embroidery look more like a work of art than an craft project.

All you need to do is make sure the fabric is secured as tight as possible at the back by gathering it. Once you are happy with the tension then just unscrew the outer hoop and remove it.

Wrapping the outer hoop

If you do any sewing projects such as dressmaking or patchwork you will probably have strips of fabric off cuts, these can be carefully wrapped around the outer hoop to change up the finished loop of the hoop.

Ribbon can also be used to wrap round the hoop as can yarn.

A glue gun can be used to secure the start and end of the material used, but when wrapping this hoop with yarn I used a needle to secure the ends and keep everything in place.

Painting/staining

Changing up the colour of the outer hoop can really alter how the finished piece looks.

Acrylic paint works well for this but you could use any paint you have around even some emulsion from that last decorating job!

Sewing on felt shapes

For this holly wreath, the felt leaves are stitched onto the outer hoop as a feature of the finished piece. You don’t have to cover the whole hoop. A few flowers on one part of the hoop with just some plain fabric would look fantastic.

Crocheting around the edge

Picking the right edging stitch can make a great frame and create a soft edge.

The crochet is around the outer edge of the hoop and different stitches will create different effects. A shell stitch is a great one to use if you want a scalloped effect.

Adding pompom trim (or other embellished edging)

I think this works especially well for colourful projects such as cross stitch. I’ve not tried this myself but this picture from The Make Arcade shows how fantastic it can look.

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What fabrics can I use for embroidery?

You can embroider on so many different types of fabric, it really depends on the project you are working on and the effect you are trying to create. All of the fabrics below are woven rather than knit (stretchy fabrics) as stitching on stretch fabrics requires some different techniques.

Here are some of the woven fabrics that I’ve tried and tested.

Calico

I use calico for many of my kits. It’s a fabric with a bit of weight to it meaning it can hold the weight of the stitches.

Cotton

When I’m not stitching on calico, cotton is my next fabric of choice. I most often stitch on old shirts or offcuts from dress making that are in my stash.

The benefit of cotton is that you can get some great patterned fabric that you can use. This fabric is an old white shirt that I dyed and then embroidered on.

But cotton fabric comes in different weights - very lightweight fabric such as cotton lawn won’t hold the weight of the stitches on their own. Using a second layer of fabric under the first layer helps solve this problem.

Evenweave

The clue is in the name - this type of fabric has an even number of warp and weft threads per inch. It means that if you stitch is five holes in length you can count this number of holes for every stitch you make to get stitches of identical length. It’s the fabric used for techniques such as blackwork and hardanger but you can also use high count evenweave fabrics for standard embroidery too (higher count means more warp/weft threads per inch and smaller gaps in between).

Linen

Much like calico, linen can take the weight of the stitches on their own.

However, linen creases and frays quite a lot so you need to be prepared to deal with that when stitching on linen.

Hessian

I’ve been experimenting more and more with hessian recently and much like evenweave there are a set number of warp and weft threads per inch but the weave of the fabric is very open.

It’s great if you want to stitch with yarn as the holes are large enough to fit the yarn through without too much tugging needed.

Felt

Felt can be great to embroider on as it doesn’t fray so it great for projects that may have a raw edge like decorations or brooches. I’ve also used it for larger pieces as it can hold the weight of stitches.

The thickness of the felt means that if you are using an embroidery hoop you’ll probably have to loosen the screw much more than you are used to to accommodate the extra bulk.

Denim

I’ve had a few pairs of jeans that are no longer wearable and not suitable for the charity shop which I’ve cut up and are in my stash, but you can also embroider on still intact garments!

I’ve experimented a couple of times with stitching on denim. I love the finished look but it is a tough fabric to work with because of the thickness and close weave. In this sample I stitched with yarn which was tough going on the fingers.

I’d also recommend checking whether there is any stretch to your denim and putting any sections with stretch to one side for now.

Canvas

I’ve picked up a few of these pre-stretched canvases from the local pound shop. You can embroider on them as is (I’ve also removed the fabric and used the frame to stretch my own fabric over). The main thing to consider with these canvasses is the width of the frame meaning that it is difficult to stitch right up to the edge so that has to be taken into account in your design.

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How to get your stitches the same size

There are some designs where you want stitches to be an identical size to give a polished finished. But how do you achieve this? Here are five techniques that might help.

By eye

I have to admit this is normally the method I use. I feel fairly confident about judging small distances. I tend to stitch slowly and make sure that with each stitch I’m happy with the position of the needle before I complete a stitch. I also look back at the past few stitches to check I’m happy with the consistency and unpick if anything looks out of place.

For slightly longer stitches I use the needle and my finger to help judge the length of the stitch.

Use a ruler

This can really help with getting the right stitch length but you still need to make sure the position of the needle is accurate.

Working with a ruler can also be a bit cumbersome (even if it is my trusty WWF ruler I’ve had for 25 years).

Draw guidelines

This is a great alternative to to ruler especially if you are able to remove or stitch over the guidelines that you make. It means you don’t need to keep picking up/putting down the ruler with each stitch.

The type of guideline you use will depend on the stitch you are making but if I use this method I tend to use tiny dots rather than full lines as these are easier to stitch over.

In this picture the guidelines are pre-printed onto the fabric which makes it even easier!

Marks on your finger

I saw this ingenious method on Instagram as a tip for stitching blanket stitch. I’ve not tried it myself yet but in taking this photo I did find that I had to hold the hoop a bit funny to get the markings to be where I needed them. A bit of trial and error might be needed for this one!

Evenweave fabric

The clue is in the name - this type of fabric has an even number of warp and weft threads per inch. It means that if you stitch is five holes in length you can count this number of holes for every stitch you make to get stitches of identical length. It’s the fabric used for techniques such as blackwork and hardanger but you can also use high count evenweave fabrics for standard embroidery too (higher count means more warp/weft threads per inch and smaller gaps inbetween).

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Four ways to tie off an embroidery thread

This is one of those things that isn’t really explained much, I know I’ve written ‘and tie off your thread’ in kit guidance a few times.

Most of people will have one preferred way to finish off, secure or tie off a thread when you’ve come to the end of the length or have finished stitching with that colour.

Over my years of stitching I’ve come across a few different methods for tying off a thread. I’ve tried them all and I do have a preference but it’s good to know the different methods as there are circumstances where one may be a better option than your normal methods.

Weaving in

Traditionally embroidered pieces didn’t have any knots to secure threads and the ends were woven under other stitches on the back of the work to secure them and stop them unravelling.

This method works really well if you have a lot of stitching visible on the back of the piece. The more stitches you can weave under the more secure the finishing.

To finish in this way, complete your last stitch and flip your hoop over so you are looking at the back of the work. Find a patch of stitches close to where the thread has come back through the fabric and pass the needle under and over this patch (without piercing the fabric) a few times.

Loop and knot

This is the method I use most of the time as it’s nice and quick and simple way to knot the thread.

To finish in this way, complete your last stitch and flip over your hoop so you are looking at the back of the work. Find some stitches close to where the thread has come back through the fabric and pass the needle under the patch (it doesn’t have to be a big patch it could be just one stitch). Create a loop and pass the needle through the loop. Pull the thread tight to create the knot. You can repeat this again to create a double knot or weave the end in a bit before trimming the end.

Try not to knot around the last stitch that was completed as this can sometimes make this stitch a bit loose on the front of the work.

Tie ends together

I use this method most often when stitching with yarn. I start my stitches by leaving a longish end and using my thumb to stop pulling this through. If when I finish my stitching the end is near to a loose end then I will secure the threads by tying the two ends together. You can tie the tails of two different threads together too.

I’ve sometimes used this method too when stitching with multiple strands of floss where other methods are not an option. I just split the thread and tie the ends together a couple of times (as one knot could pull through the fabric).

Sew in place

I learnt this method when practising gold work as the gold work threads can’t easily be woven or knotted.

To secure threads like this you take a thinner sewing thread and gently work from side to side catching the fabric and looping over the thread you are securing. Because you need to catch the fabric you need to be aware of what is showing on the front of the embroidery.

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Three embroidery tools it's worth getting right

I’m an advocate for re-using and recycling materials for my crafting. And when there is something I need for a project I’ll often head for the local pound shops to see if they have something I can use.

But embroidery requires a degree of precision so there are some tools where it is worth investing a little money to get great quality items.

Needles

I once made the mistake of buying some needles from the pound shop. They were terrible. The shaft of the needle wasn’t smooth so they caught in the fabric. The eye of the needle was also rough and frayed the thread after just a few stitches. One needle in the batch even had a completely square eye end!

There are some brand names that I’ve had a similar experience with. All the needles I use in my kits are from Prym and they’re great. I’ve also used John James needles that I’ve been impressed by.

Scissors

For embroidery the two crucial features of scissors are sharp and pointy. You don’t want to be hacking away at your thread of fabric, you want a nice clean cut.

These are all the scissors I have sitting in a jar on my craft table. Of these the gold stork scissors and little silver pair are my go-to’s. They both have the pointiest points and a good ‘snip’.

I’ve accumulated these pairs over time as gifts or as part of kits so don’t have any recommendations of where to buy a good pair at the moment.

Hoop

A wonky hoop won’t hold your fabric tight enough to give you enough tension to create great stitches. I’ve learned this the hard way. I went on holiday for 2 weeks with plenty of embroidery to keep me busy but only one hoop. I didn’t check that hoop before packing it and spent the whole holiday cursing that hoop!

Can you see that gap on the left of the hoop in the picture? That’s a big no-no with hoops - you shouldn’t be able to see any gap with a good hoop.

Elbesee are UK made hoops with a great reputation. I also have found a great supplier of hoops and you’ll be able to buy these hoops in my shop soon.

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The four main groups of embroidery stitches

Ever felt a bit overwhelmed by all the different embroidery stitches and their different names?

Sometimes it’s easier to identify the group a stitch belongs to rather than remember the name of the specific stitch.

1) Line stitches

Most commonly these are stitched in a line, but they can also include border stitches.

Examples include backstitch, running stitch, stem stitch and split stitch.

2) Isolated stitches

These are stitches that can be stitched on their own, or combined in groups.

Examples include seed stitch, French knots, bullion knots and lazy daisy stitch.

3) Filling stitches

If you need to fill an area then these are the stitches to use. It doesn’t mean you can’t use others, but these stitches work best.

Examples include satin stitch, long and short stitch, brick stitch.

4) Texture stitches

These stitches are used to add texture or a bit of wow factor to a piece of embroidery .

Examples include needle weaving, woven wheels, woven picots, turkey work.

If you can’t find the stitch that you want, have a browse of my stitch showcase blogs until you see one you like.

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Six ways to start off a thread

If you’ve stitched or sewn anything by hand before you probably have a method that you use to start off your thread. My go-to is a simple knot, but there are some other methods that you may find easier or may be particularly useful for the type of project you are working on.

Knot

I always knot the tail end of the thread. There are a few exceptions that I cover here, but most of the time a knot is fine to prevent your thread going all the way through the fabric.

Juts a note on knots. I always use a quilters knot which I like to think of a bit like a French knot just without the fabric! Take the end of the thread (furthest from the needle) and wrap it round the needle a few times. Then carefully move the wraps down the needle and to the end of the thread. You should find you have a nice neat little knot. There is a step by step tutorial from Craftsy here.

Waste knot

This is a little different because you start the thread from the right side. Once you’ve created your knot, bring the needle down through the fabric away from where you are going to start stitching.

Make a few stitches and then gently snip the knot away and make sure the tail is pulled through to the wrong side.

Hold in place

This is the one that puts you most at risk of frustration. You need to concentrate or you end up pulling the thread all the way through.

Pull the needle through the fabric and leave a 1-2cm tail on the wrong side. Use your thumb from your non-stitching hand to hold the thread in place while you make a few stitches. Be careful not to pull the thread too hard until you are a few stitches in otherwise the tail will pull through.

Anchor stitches

This is very similar method to the ‘hold in place’ method except you are consciously making a couple of tiny stitches that you will then cover up. In the previous method you are stitching as normal.

Weave in

If you have a lot of stitches already on the back of your work you can weave in the tail so that you have a secure base and can start stitching with confidence

Loop

Sometimes I’ll cut a metre length of thread and then fold it in half to stitch with two strands. When doing this it opens up the option of securing the thread using the looped end.

Bring the needle up through the fabric being careful not to pull it all the way through. Complete the first stitch and pass the needle through the loop. Pull the first stitch tight and continue stitching as normal.

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Five tips for getting fabric taut in an embroidery hoop

An embroidery hoop is crucial to creating a beautiful finished piece of embroidery. Most of the projects that you’ll stitch you’ll need the fabric really taut so you can drum your fingers on it and get a sound. (There are some exceptions to this but that’s for another blog post).

Here are my tips for getting your fabric as taut as you can in your hoop.

1) pick a hoop with a bit of grip

Hoops are normally made from wood, bamboo or plastic. Personally I avoid stitching with plastic hoops as I in my experience they are too slippery and don’t grip the fabric well enough. I prefer wood or bamboo hoops which give some added grip and help to maintain the tension. However, I know that others swear by plastic hoops - find what works best for you.

2) make sure that the inner and outer hoop fit snuggly together

Some hoops aren’t perfectly round so the inner and outer hoop may have some gaps between them. Try rotating the inner hoop around before adding the fabric to find the best fit. You can mark the edge of the inner and outer hoop so you can align them back up when you’ve added the fabric. But at the end of the day if the hoop is misshapen it’s best to put it to one side and pick another hoop.

3) pull the EDges of the fabric to create tension

Working around the hoop and pulling the edge of the fabric after you’ve tightened the hoop can make sure that the fabric in the centre of the hoop is taut. Then tighten the screw one last time to secure the fabric in place. You may find that you need to do this a few times as you stitch the project.

4) use tools to tighten the screw

I only learned fairly recently that the screw on some hoops has a slot for a flat head or philips head screwdriver. Using a screwdriver really works - you can turn the screw much further than with your fingers alone. And if your hoop doesn’t have this slot then you could use some pilers instead (although these may mark the metal so be careful!)

5) use a second layer of fabric

For some hoops you get to the limit of how far you can tighten the screw before you’ve reached the tension you need. Bulking out your fabric by using an extra layer can help give you that extra turn of the screw and get your fabric super taut. Alternatively you can bind the inner hoop with some fabric tape to get the same effect.

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How to thread a needle

I’ve had 25+ years of practice of threading a needle and to me it is second nature, but if you are just starting out it can be very frustrating if you spend more time threading the needle than stitching.

Here are my top tips for you to try to improve your needle threading experience.

Pick the right needle

If you struggle with threading a needle then have a look at the needle you are using. It may be that the eye of the needle is super small making it really difficult for you.

You don’t necessarily need to pick a thicker needle, just a slightly different type with a bigger eye. This post shows some of the different types you might come across.

Trim the end of your thread

Snipping the end to create a blunt flat starting point makes it a lot easier to thread a needle.

This is a really important step if you are re-threading a needle that you’ve been stitching with already as the end of the thread frays slightly as you work. If you are stitching with multiple strands snipping them so they are all the same length also really helps.

Moisten and squeeze

I don’t know if there is any scientific backing to this tip but it has always worked for me! I pop the end of the thread in my mouth to moisten it slightly. I then squeeze the end between my thumb and forefinger so that the end sticks up no more than a millimetre.

Take the needle to the thread

Whilst you are squeezing the thread with your non-dominant hand, pick up the needle in your sewing hand and take it towards the thread. Push the needle down and gently release more of the thread as you move the needle down. As soon as there are a few millimetres through the eye grab the needle with your non-sewing hand and grab the end of the thread with your sewing hand and pull the thread through so you have a decent length tail.

A needle threader is an option

I don’t include a needle threader in my kits as I believe most people can learn to thread a needle.

But if you are really having trouble threading a needle then a needle threader is always an option.

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The anatomy of an embroidery hoop

An embroidery hoop is the one piece of equipment you need to get started with embroidery. So understanding a bit about the hoop helps (but isn’t essential).

There are three main parts to an embroidery hoop that it is useful to recognise. The inner hoop, the outer hoop and the screw fitting. The materials the hoop is made from and the size are also important considerations

Inner & outer hoop

An embroidery hoop has two parts, an inner hoop and an outer hoop. The inner hoop fits snuggly inside the outer hoop (if it doesn’t then you will have problems when stitching). The inner hoop is fully circular, you shouldn’t be able to see any joins! The outer hoop has a screw fitting and isn’t fully circular.

I recommend that you embroider with the fabric laid over the inner hoop and the outer hoop pressed on top. This will mean that there will be a few millimetres right at the edge of the embroidery hoop where you can’t stitch but it is easy to embroider this way up than flipping the hoop over and having the inner hoop on top.

Screw fitting

The screw fitting is there to tighten the hoop to create tension in the fabric. You can fully unscrew the screw but normally this isn’t needed.

On some hoops if you look at the end of the screw you’ll see an indent that you can use a screwdriver with. Most of the time you can tighten the screw tight enough with your fingers but if you need that little extra grip then for this style of hoop you can use a screwdriver.

Materials

Embroidery hoops are most commonly made from wood, bamboo or plastic.

My preference is to use a wooden hoop as I find that these type of hoop grips the fabric really well creating great tension. I use wooden hoops in all of my kits for this reason.

Bamboo hoops are also great for the same reason but I’ve found that some of the bamboo hoops I’ve bought (especially from eBay) are mis-shapen. When a hoop isn’t perfectly round then it doesn’t hold the fabric tight and causes problems with stitching.

I’ve also found two different types of plastic hoops - those that have a screw (like the wooden/bamboo hoops) and those that have some flex. Personally I find that when I stitch in plastic hoops the fabric slips around too much. I am also trying to reduce the amount of plastic in my life so am not buying any more of this type of hoop. Any that I have left in my stash I'm using just for framing finished pieces.

Size

Embroidery hoops come in different sizes and will be measure by diameter so a 6 inch hoop will be that measurement across (not around). Some designs work best in certain sized hoops. In addition sometimes it can be better to stitch a design in a slightly larger hoop than you will display the finished work in (so you can stitch right to the edge of the available space.

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Crafting as self care - Framework vs Freedom

I've been thinking a lot about the topic of self care during the past year of lockdowns.

I’ve come to realise that I’ve always practiced self care via crafting. It provides me a point of focus away from everything else going on and as an introvert it is an activity that I can do alone to recharge my batteries. I find that if I don’t have a craft project on the go I feel a little lost.

Craft is known to have a positive impact on wellbeing and there is starting to be some scientific research to back this up. For some it is the rhythm and repetition, whereas for others it is working on something where there will be a tangible outcome (within our control).

This Craft Council blog explores some of these reasons. And this article is an interesting read on author’s reflection on the calming effects of needlecraft in their life.

But crafting projects frequently come with imposed or self-imposed ‘rules’, which for some can be a help or hinderance when using craft as self care. Are these familiar?

You must use these materials

You can only make this stitch using this technique

To achieve this look you must do 10 of these and 5 of these

Over the past few years I’ve learned that my personality type is one which thrives when there are rules or boundaries to work within (maybe that is why I’m drawn to certain crafts?). Combined with that, I lean strongly towards my head (thinking) being in control. But I am consciously trying to bring in my heart (feeling) more into my everyday life.

But even I, directed by ‘rules’ and my head, love the freedoms and choices that we can make even within those ‘rules’.

For example, with a crochet or knitting pattern, if you don’t follow the ‘rules’ closely you won’t get the right size & shape. But you don’t have to use the exact colour (or even the exact yarn) shown in the pattern.

I try to build in a combination of framework and freedom into the kits that I design. I know that sometimes I need a project that I can pick up and just be guided how to stitch something exactly like in the picture. Other times I crave total creative freedom to turn a bunch of materials into something unique. A lot of the time I need something in-between - an idea that I can broadly follow but add my own twist to.

One of my favourite ways to craft that fulfils that ‘in-between’ is intuitive embroidery. I find it a particularly mindful embroidery practice with no constraints, no fixed pattern and no plan. Each stitch starts by selecting a thread colour, seeing where that colour fits best and stitching in whatever form seems right. No stitch is a mistake. Occasionally one stitch may look out of place, but adding other stitches around it tends resolve the unease to create something beautiful.

I've been working on some kits that use this intuitive embroidery technique and the first of these that I’ve released is this heart design. It's stitched using isolated stitches. These are stitches that you can place anywhere. They don't need to be connected to any other stitches, which make them perfect for this technique.

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What you need to get started with embroidery

Embroidery is a great craft to try as you don’t need much equipment to get started. But if you want to start stitching what do you need?

1. An embroidery hoop

For pretty much every embroidery project you will stitch (especially as a beginner) you will need an embroidery hoop. The hoop keeps the fabric taut meaning when you take your finished piece out of the the hoop the stitches will lie flat and the fabric won’t pucker.

2. Fabric

You need something to stitch onto. Woven fabrics are best to use as a beginner (rather than stretchy knit fabrics). If you are buying fabric then look for types such as cotton, calico. I started my embroidery journey stitching onto some cut up old shirts. You don’t have to stitch to neutral colours - pick any colour that makes you want to stitch, you could even stitch onto patterned fabric.

My favourite fabric to stitch onto is lightweight calico as it has a bit of stability to it and the needle slips easily through.

3. A pattern

You don’t necessarily need a pattern to start embroidering, you could just create a stitch sampler to try out different embroidery stitches.

I recommend for beginners to start with a pattern that you love and just have a go. There are so many embroidery patterns out there both free and paid for. I started embroidery when I saw a pattern from Sarah K. Benning and loved it so much I just had to stitch it. I paid for that pattern and I encourage you to support embroidery artists by buying patterns from them if you can. The benefit of a paid pattern is that they tend to come with stitch guides and other support.

But there are plenty of free patterns available - take a look at my free patterns. Also DMC (makers of embroidery floss) have a huge archive of free patterns as well.

So pick some that you like and download them and see if they give you the support you need.

4. A pencil or air/heat/water erasable pen

To start stitching your chosen pattern you need to transfer your design onto your fabric. It isn’t as complicated as it seems and I have a couple of blog posts to help you transfer a digital pattern and to transfer a paper pattern. If this part fills you with fear then take a look at my floral and sunflower kits as the pattern is printed directly onto the fabric.

5. Floss

Most traditional embroidery is stitched with 6 stranded embroidery floss. The pattern that you pick will often tell you which brand of floss was used and the colour code.

You don’t actually need to use the exact colour or brand that is suggested in the pattern. My first embroidery I created using floss I’d bought from the £1 shop. Yes the floss quality can be variable and a bit fluffy rather than smooth and silky. But this is your first piece of embroidery - it isn’t going to be perfect.

If you want to stitch with the branded floss then go for it! Got some other types of thread such as sewing cotton or thin yarn, you could give them a try too. The key is just to start and see how it turns out.

6. Needle

Got one of those free sewing kits you picked up in a hotel back years ago? You can use the needle from that or any other needle you’ve got lying around as long as it’s got a pointy end (if you do cross stitch those needles have a rounded end and aren’t any good for embroidery).

Yes there are different types of needle for different types of sewing (I’ve got a blog post which talks you through five different needle types for hand embroidery) but as long as you can thread the needle with your chosen floss you are good to go.

7. Scissors

Scissors are useful for a number of reasons - to cut your fabric to the right size and to snip the ends of your thread. You can get specialist sharp embroidery scissors but in reality any scissors you have around the house that can snip fabric or thread will do.

That’s the seven items you need to get started with embroidery. If you buy one of my kits you’ll get items 1-6 included (I’m hoping to give you some add on scissor options in the future).

Want to know what to do with these items once you’ve gathered them - my 20-page free ebook Getting Started With Embroidery will guide you through the next steps.

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.

How to trace a paper embroidery pattern

When I first started embroidering I used patterns from books and designs I found for free or purchased which I downloaded and printed. However, in order to know what elements to stitch and where you need to transfer the pattern onto the fabric. This is one of the most challenging steps for a novice embroiderer so in this blog post I’ll walk you through how to go about transferring paper patterns onto fabric.

This method works best for thinner and lighter coloured fabrics, if the fabric is too dark or too thick then you’ll need to use another method of transfer such as carbon paper, tissue paper or water soluble paper (blog posts to come on these).

In order to transfer a paper pattern you need a source of light. There are two main options a light box (or light box app on a tablet device) and a window.

I’ll walk you through using a window, if you want more information on using a light box app on a tablet device head over to this blog post that takes you through this method (the only difference being you would just lay the paper pattern on top of a plain white screen in the app).

The benefit of using a window is that you can trace much larger patterns than you can on a tablet.

I recommend using an air, water or heat soluble pen for tracing, for more information about the different pens you can use for transferring patterns take a look at this blog post.

• Start by making sure that you have the ‘right’ side of the fabric facing towards the inner hoop and stretching the fabric in the hoop as tight as possible

• Tape the paper pattern to the window

• Press the hoop up to the window and line it up with any guidelines on the pattern

• Start by tracing the main elements

• If you need to move the hoop to see whether you have missed anything use the main elements to help re-align the fabric on the pattern

• Trace any smaller elements or details

• Loosen the hoop and turn the fabric over so that the ‘right’ side is on the same side as the outer hoop

Need some patterns to practice you tracing? Take a look at my shop where I have some PDF patterns available.

How to trace a digital embroidery pattern on a tablet

When I’m stitching personal projects I prefer to trace the pattern I’m going to use from a digital image rather than a printer one (mainly because I have a very old printed that’s a bit of a faff to set up and never seems to have ink or paper!) This method does only work for projects that are no bigger than your tablet screen. For bigger projects then the paper based method is probably best.

First up take a screenshot of the pattern - how you do this will depend on your type and model of tablet. For iPads there are instructions on the Apple support site. Save this image to your photos.

I have an iPad and use an app called Lightbox Trace. There are other apps out there but I like the simplicity of this app.

When you open up the app you get this rather boring grey screen. Tap on the button in the bottom left of the screen and select the pattern image from your photo library.

Resize the image so that it is the right size for the hoop you are using.

Then click on the ‘padlock’ icon (second from the right on the tool bar.

This will lock the image and stop it moving around. You should also see your screen noticeably brighter.

Make sure that you’ve added your fabric to you hoop and it’s as tight as possible. Flip the hoop over so that you can see the inner ring and the fabric can lie flat on the screen.

Line the hoop up over the screen and press down so the hoop doesn’t move around. You should be able to see the pattern through the fabric. If the fabric is thick or dark then this method probably isn’t going to work.

Using a pencil or air/water/heat erasable pen make smooth rather than sketchy lines as you trace the pattern.

If you need to move the hoop to check that you have traced all parts of the pattern, carefully re-align the hoop before you continue tracing.

Got your own supplies and just need a pattern? I have PDF versions of a selection of my designs in the shop. I also share a free pattern in my newsletter each month - you can sign up here or find past patterns here.