Focus on knots

Many of the patterns I’ve designed include French knots. Some people (including me) really love them and other people hate them - I'm sorry if you are in the latter group, I promise that some patterns I design don’t include any! 

Knots feature in embroidery both on the front and back of the fabric. 

Traditionally, knots are not used to start and finish a thread, but personally I prefer using them.

In this blog post, to knot or not to knot, I cover when it is useful to use knots and when it is useful to use another method to secure the thread.

My favourite type of knot to use to secure a thread at the start of a section of embroidery is the quilters knot. If you've not tried using one before then this blog post shows you how to create one. 

Meanwhile on the front of your embroidery, if you want my tips on stitching French knots, then I have a tutorial here. I recommend also taking a look at pistil stitch, which is an elongated French knot and is great for the centre of flowers. There is a tutorial here if you've not come across it before. 

The final knot to share is a bullion knot. This has been my nemesis for a long time, but I recently finished stitching this which required lots of delicate bullion knots. It's still not my favourite stitch but I'm certainly much better at stitching them, so it does help to practice. My tutorial for bullion knot is here. 

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Focus on stranded floss

The cow parsley pattern is a great one to experiment with using different numbers of strands of floss to get different effects as there are different stem thicknesses and flower sizes in this design.

Most patterns suggest using one or two strands of floss to stitch with, but have you ever tried stitching with 3, 4, 5 or even all 6 strands?

In this blog post, I stitched some common embroidery stitches using different number of stitches to see what impact this had on the look. It's really interesting to see the difference between using one or two strands, let alone the difference between one and six strands.

While in this blog post I share my tips for separating strands of floss without getting in a big tangle.

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Focus on raised stitches

With the muscari pattern I wanted to mimic the small florets by creating a raised oval effect so they stood out away from the fabric slightly more than the rest of the stitching. 

There are a few different stitches that can give this effect, and each one will give a lightly different look to your finished piece. 

• layered lazy daisy - you build up little loops lying on top and inside of each other

• granitos - short satin stitches, one you have the base oval shape, just keep on adding stitches until it is as raised as far as you need

• bullion knots - this is probably my least favourite stitch, but it may be one you love, this is probably the stitch you'd pick if you wanted a traditional embroidery choice.

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Tips for unpicking thread tangles

If you’ve ever worked with embroidery floss, you know that sometimes it has a mind of its own and gets in an almighty tangle which you will need to sort out before you can carry on stitching.

Here are a few tips that you can use to try and resolve any tangles.

1. scale of the issue

Often, the tangle is more of a knotting issue by tracing the line of the thread you may be able to find a quick and easy way to get the thread unknotted.

2. Gently pull the ends

Sometimes gently pulling on the loose ends of the thread may untangle everything. But beware! It can also make the situation worse by making any knots tighter so proceed slowly and with caution.

3. Use a Needle or Pin

For tighter tangles or knots a needle or pin can be useful. Use the point of the needle to carefully work the knotted thread loose. Insert the needle gently under the loops and wiggle it free. Again, a slow and cautious approach.

4. Pull the knot through to the back

For tiny knots that may appear you can sometime pull the thread through in the course of a normal stitch so that the knot pops through to the back, you can then be careful when making the next stitch that the knot stays hidden at the back of the fabric.

5. snip as a last resort

Generally, if the thread has managed to get into a tangle, it can also be untangled without the need to snip the knot out. But there are some knots that are so tight that the only course of action is to snip the knot out. You may have enough to thread to continue stitching and/or secure the thread, or you may need to then unpick a couple of stitches in order to secure the thread.

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How to add elements to a basic embroidery pattern

When I design patterns I tend to include only one or two main elements in the pattern. But in reality plants or flowers don't grow in isolation, they nestle next to each other.

In this blog post I’ll outline how you can take one of my embroidery patterns and repeat some of the elements to fill more of the embroidery hoop and make your own unique embroidery.

Start by downloading the pattern you want to use. I recommend working with the digital versions of patterns to allow you to re-size the different elements.

If you’ve not used or transferred from a digital pattern before then this blog post guides you through how do to this

Pick the first element to trace. In the Winter Jasmine example shown below I traced the basic pattern onto the fabric first. You could also pick the largest flower or the one you want to feature.

For the next layers of the elements, look at the basic patterns and see which parts of it you can use in full or by tweaking slightly.

I traced most of the original pattern for the next branch down but moved the pattern slightly so that a smaller flower overlapped the largest flower making it a bit different from the original design but not having to draw anything that wasn’t on the original pattern. I also omitted a couple of parts of the original design on this branch so it wasn’t a complete copy.

For the top and bottom elements on the fuller design, I traced parts of the end of the original pattern.

When adding these other elements consider whether you can vary the size of the elements - if you are tracing from a digital pattern you can resize the pattern before you trace additional parts. Also think about the positioning of the additional elements. In my Winter Jasmine example I angled each additional element to try and make them look like they were all coming from a main branch that was out of frame. It’s also important to consider spacing, and whether you want any elements to overlap each other.

Below is the original pattern and what I traced using the original pattern to fill the hoop and what the extra elements look like when stitched.

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Using yarn in embroidery

Traditionally, embroidery is done with embroidery floss or thread, but yarn can also be used especially if you want to create a different texture make a larger project.

Thickness

The main differences when using yarn for embroidery is the thickness. Most yarn is thicker than traditional embroidery thread meaning it is great for working larger areas of stitching. Combining different thicknesses of yarn can work really well.

texture

Yarn is made from a variety of materials and this can lead to a range of textures. Fluffy yarn such as alpaca can be contrasted with smoother yarn such as cotton.

Needles

With yarn being thicker, you won’t be able to use your normal embroidery needles. A thicker needle with a larger eye will be needed, I tend to use a chenille needle or a tapestry needle depending if it is closed weave fabric (that will need piercing with a sharp point) or more open weave fabric (where the needle can easily pass through the holes).

fabric

With yarn being thicker, this also means it is heavier so a sturdier fabric is required. The weave of the fabric also needs to be considered with larger gaps between the warp and weft threads so that the yarn can fit through (if the gaps are too small you need to tug the yarn through the fabric which hurts your fingers and can cause damage to the yarn or fabric). Aida and hessian are good open weave fabrics. Felt and denim are sturdier fabrics that can hold the weight of the yarn stitches but do require a large pointed needle to pass through.

stitches

Some of the more intricate stitches are more challenging to use when stitching with yarn. I’ve found that using the basic stitches works best, allowing the yarn colour and texture to shine.

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What can you learn from vintage embroidery books

Whenever I pop into a charity shop to browse, I always head to books to see if there are any old craft books for inspiration. My favourite find was in Durham Oxfam bookshop, a classic embroidery stitch dictionary.

Very often, these books are filled with beautiful illustrations, detailed instructions and project ideas. Sometimes you do need to look paste the styling of the projects (especially books from the 70s, 80s and 90s!)

Here are a few things you can pick up and learn from such books:

1. Traditional Stitches and Techniques

Vintage embroidery books are a fantastic resource for learning stitches, these books often come with detailed diagrams and step-by-step instructions. Traditional stitches included in these books form the foundation for many modern embroidery styles.

You may also discover a stitch or technique that you’ve not tried before or isn’t practiced commonly today. For example, crewel work (a form of embroidery using wool thread) and blackwork (a monochrome stitch that creates intricate, geometric patterns) were very popular in the past, and exploring these can give you ideas for future projects.

2. Historical Patterns and Designs

Vintage embroidery books often feature a variety of historical patterns that reflect what was in fashion at that time such as floral motifs. You could recreate a historical piece or see how embroidery has evolved.

Many vintage books also provide designs that were used for specific items such as tablecloths, linens, clothing or stitch samplers. These patterns can be a source of inspiration for creating your own projects, allowing you bring different techniques into your work.

3. Colour, Fabric and designs

With the limited range of materials available in the past, crafters had to be resourceful and use what they had available to them. Vintage books often showcase beautiful colour palettes and fabric pairings and how different materials affect the outcome of your stitching.

4. Gift ideas

Embroidery books that contain projects can give ideas for making hand-stitched gifts. Vintage books often offer instructions and designs for practical items like embroidered tea towels, aprons, and bed linens. These projects are great in showcasing practical uses for embroidery rather than embroidery just as art to hang on the wall.

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What is the difference between cross stitch and embroidery?

I sometimes get contacted to ask if I produce cross stitch designs. I focus on embroidery but I understand that these two crafts may seem very similar so here are some of the key differences between the two.

Cross Stitch

Cross stitch is a specific embroidery practice that uses a limited range of stitches, primarily the distinctive X-shaped stitches, stitched on a grid like fabric. It’s a very popular craft and great for kids (or anyone) just starting out on their crafting journey

• Stitches - The main stitch is cross-shaped stitches that are used to form a gridded pattern. Half cross stitches can also be used as well as straight backsticthes and French knots to add detail

• Fabric - The most commonly used fabric for cross stitch is Aida, a cloth with a regular grid structure, making it easy to count and follow patterns and create perfect little crosses. Other fabrics like linen or evenweave can also be used as they have a regular weave but have much finer weft and warp thread (so can be harder on the eyes!) Aida comes in a range of colours and sizes.

• Patterns - Due to the gridded nature of the fabric, cross stitch patterns are designed using grids and look like a pixel-like picture. On the grid either colours or symbols are used to identify which colour floss is to be used. Where symbols are used each symbol will correspond to a specific colour thread (patterns with symbols can be a little more challenging to follow).

Embroidery

Embroidery is a much broader term that encompasses a huge variety of techniques. Unlike cross stitch, which relies on a limited range of stitches, embroidery can involve a wide range of stitch types.

• Stitches - There is a vast number of stitches used in embroidery such as satin stitch, chain stitch, split stitch, and many more, some of which you can see on my stitch showcase page. Depending on the stitches selected there can be intricate details and use of textures as part of the design.

• Fabric - Embroidery can be done on a variety of fabrics, including linen and cotton. The choice of fabric often depends on the desired final result, as some fabrics are better suited to certain embroidery techniques or effects.

• Patterns - Embroidery patterns are usually less structured than cross stitch. While some designs may follow a set grid, many embroidery pieces are more free-form and can encompass flat, smooth designs or 3D textures.

Cross stitch and embroidery both fall under the broader umbrella of ‘needlework’. Cross stitch is a specialised technique that focuses on cross-shaped stitches and more geometric patterns, while embroidery is a more varied craft that includes a variety of stitches for creating diverse designs.

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How to make time for embroidery

Finding time to sit down and work on an embroidery project can be a challenge. But if you’re an embroidery enthusiast or have always wanted to give it a go, there are ways that you can carve out some of your time to get stitching.

1. Start Small

You don’t need to spend hours on a project all in one go. It can be overwhelming to think you need a large block of time to make progress. Just a few minutes are needed to stitch an element of a project. You can even select smaller, quicker projects such as mini-hoops.

2. Make Use of In-Between Moments

Don’t underestimate those “in-between” moments throughout your day. A journey on public transport or waiting for an appointment are perfect for a spot of stitching. Keep a small project in a portable bag, so you’re ready to stitch whenever the opportunity arises!

3. incorporate it into your routine

I do a lot of my embroidery in front of the TV watching programmes that don’t require a lot of concentration to follow. Webinars/online meetings where you are mostly listening rather than participating are also a good way of routinely completing some embroidery. It’s all about finding those windows in your day where you can build in a bit of stitching..

4. Set a Specific Time Each Week

Alternatively you could set a designated time each week just for embroidery. A chance to focus on something you love without distractions. Whether it’s every Saturday afternoon at your favourite coffee shop or Thursday evening in front of a trashy TV programme, having a regular embroidery time will ensure that your creative project keeps progressing.

5. Join a Community

Sometimes, having others to hold you accountable can make all the difference. Consider joining a craft group locally or online. Sharing your projects with others can provide the motivation to stick to your stitching time and show how you’ve progressed between meetups. Joining a community also gives you the opportunity to learn from fellow crafters and get inspiration for future projects.

6. Be Flexible

Life will occasionally take over, so it’s important to remain flexible. If you don’t stitch for a while, its not the end of the world (unless you are aiming to finish a project to gift to someone on a certain date). The beauty of embroidery is that it can be picked up whenever you have time and is a very portable.

7. Create a pHysical Space

Having a dedicated spot for your embroidery can make it easier to get stitching whenever you have a few free minutes. Whether it’s a small corner in your living room or another designated craft nook, a comfortable and inviting space can make it feel much more enjoyable. Keep your supplies within reach so you stitch whenever you feel the urge. I’m lucky that I have a study where I keep all my craft supplies. However, I do most of my stitching in the living room so I keep a small box on a shelf next to the sofa with the project I’m currently working on so it is ready to pick up when I want to stitch

Embroidery and crafting is a proven way of practising self care. It can help with relaxation and also keeps your hands busy and away from constant scrolling so it’s important to make sure that you do make time for embroidery or whatever your chosen hobby is.

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What is stranded embroidery thread?

I’m conscious that in my patterns I regularly refer to the number of strands of thread that I recommend using for different elements of a pattern. But if you are just getting started with embroidery you may be wondering what is meant when a ‘strand’ is referred to.

Stranded embroidery thread, often referred to as floss, is a type of thread commonly used in hand embroidery. Unlike solid threads, stranded thread is made up of multiple fine strands that can be separated and used individually, offering flexibility over the thickness and detail of the stitching. The most well-known brand of stranded embroidery thread is DMC, but many other brands offer similar products.

Typically, a skein of stranded thread is made from cotton and contains six individual strands. You can choose to work with all six or separate them and use whichever number suits your project. This ability to break down the thread into smaller strands is what makes it so versatile for embroidery.

Most commonly stranded thread is made from cotton, but you can also get stranded thread made from silk or wool.

Most projects I create I stitch with 2 strands of floss, or 1 strand if I want finer detail.

This blog post shows how using different numbers of strands with a range of stitches can affect the finished look.

And in this blog post I share my tips for preventing tangles when working with strands of thread.

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How to manage your backlog of craft projects

If you are anything like me, you see creations on Instagram, Pinterest, in books and magazines and want to make them all!

I currently have more than 10 projects I want to stitch, and some projects are quite big and ambitious. I felt I needed a bit of a system because I was just stitching the latest project rather than those that I’ve wanted to stitch for ages.

I use a Kanban board. You probably do a form of this already and just don’t call it a Kanban board! Basically it is a series of steps each project goes through. Each step has a heading and projects move from one heading to the next as they complete each step.

For example, the headings I have are

• Idea - a project idea or design I want to stitch. This is a good place to park all of your ideas and it then helps you remember ones you loved but forgot about.

• Prepared - all the materials for the project including the pattern or design have been gathered ready to start. I have this step as I found I had loads of ideas but some of them weren’t getting made as I hadn’t got round to sourcing the materials. When my ‘in progress’ pile is getting low I look at my ideas and shop my stash and then acquire the missing materials. Each prepared project goes in a bag with the pattern, fabric, hoop, and a threads so it is ready to pick up and start. This step is also a great way of using up as many materials as possible.

• In progress - the project has been started. I’ve found that having this step has highlighted just how many projects I have on the go at once. Having visibility of this has helped me concentrate on getting the stitching for projects completed.

• Needs finishing - the stitching has been completed and it needs framing and hanging. I’ve found that a lot of my makes have got stuck at this stage so by highlighting this it reminds me to get my finished works on display

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What to do if you don't like what you've stitched

Sometimes something you have stitched just doesn’t look right either because of the stitch or the colour of thread used. Putting the project to one side and coming back to it with fresh eyes can solve it, but more often than not you’re gonna have to admit it’s time to cut out those stitches. Try and let go of thoughts about how much time you spent stitching that section and focus instead on how great it will look when you’ve re-stitched it!

But how do you remove those stitches with the least fuss possible?

1. Gather Your Tools

Before you begin unpicking, make sure you have the necessary tools on hand. Here's what you'll need:

• Seam ripper or scissors - A seam ripper is specifically designed to cut through threads without damaging your fabric. The pointed end can carefully cut individual stitches, while the small blade helps lift threads from the fabric. If you don’t have a seam ripper then you want your smallest pointiest scissors.

• Tweezers - Once you've snipped the stitches with the seam ripper/scissors, tweezers will help you grab hold of the loose threads and pull them out (you can do this with your fingers but you can’t always grab onto the smallest remnants of thread).

2. Identify the Stitches to Unpick

Before you begin the unpicking process, make sure you know exactly which stitches need to be removed. You don't want to end up pulling out stitches you wanted to keep! It may be that the section you want to remove is next to a section that you want to keep which will require particular care.

3. Start removing

With your seam ripper or scissors you will need to make that scary first snip.

• Work in small sections - It's always best to tackle small areas at a time. If you try to remove a large section in one go, it can be harder to control and may cause unnecessary damage to the fabric or you may accidentally remove stitches you didn’t want to cut out.

• Assess the stitch - depending on the type of stitch used, some will be easier to remove than others, but generally insert the pointed end of the seam ripper or scissors under the centre of the stitch between the thread and the fabric. Be very careful not to cut into the fabric beneath.

• Continue cutting and removing stitches - After cutting one thread, continue working your way along the stitch line. If it is an area of stitching you have only recently completed, you may remember the order of stitches that you made meaning you can just pull the stitches out rather than having to cut through every stitch.

4. Pull Out the Threads with Tweezers

Once you've snipped the stitches, you’ll likely have lots of loose threads or thread fuzz still caught in the fabric. Gently grasp the loose threads with the tweezers and pull them out one by one. Be careful not to pull too hard, as you don’t want to rip or distort the fabric. If a thread won’t come out then you may need to go back and snip some more thread.

5. Remove Any Leftover Thread Fragments

After you’ve pulled out the majority of the stitches, there may still be small remnants of thread or thread fuzz stuck to the fabric. You can use your tweezers to remove these or carefully trim any remaining threads with small scissors. It’s important to make sure the fabric is completely clear of any stray threads before you start stitching again. For thread fuzz, you can drag your fingernail (or the tweezers) over the surface to scrape this away. A few pieces of tape can then be used remove this fuzz from the fabric completely.

6. Check the Fabric for Damage

Unpicking stitches can sometimes cause minor damage to the fabric, especially if the stitching was tight or the fabric is delicate. Check the fabric for any tiny holes or stretched areas. If you notice any damage, try to smooth it out with your fingers or the point of your embroidery needle. You can rub the needle back and forth over the area and this encourages the warp and weft threads to move back towards their original position.

7. Start Again

Now that you have removed the incorrect stitches, you can begin again! Take your time to re-stitch the section carefully and how you visualised it.

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Focus on colour

I've been working on an embroidery project at the moment based on a pattern designed by another embroidery artist. She provided a detailed colour guide, but I didn't have all the colours she suggested in my stash and I didn't want to buy new colours so I found the best matches from my stash. But if you are designing your own pattern, or using one of my free patterns where I leave the colour choices up to you then you'll need to make some decisions about the colours you use.

• This blog post discusses finding the 'right' yellow.

• Here I give some ideas about ways of exploring colour combinations in your embroidery projects.

• And this blog post has some tips about picking colour palettes.

I've got plenty of other blog posts about colour (and other aspects of embroidery) so I encourage you to browse through the embroidery tips page on my website.

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Using text in embroidery

By translating the handwriting or text into embroidery, you bring a personal unique touch into your project. It’s a way to preserve meaningful words, quotes, or even a loved one's handwriting into your project.

Write it

Write out the text you want to incorporate. This can be on paper or on screen. It doesn’t have to be perfect, that is what makes it unique, but it does need to be big enough that you can stitch it.

Applications such as procreate can capture writing digitally. If you are writing on paper, you can take a photo to digitise it. A digital version means you can resize it more easily so that you can make it fit your project or easier to stitch.

If you just want text rather than handwriting you can instead select a font style and type the words or phrase you want. Google fonts allows you to explore many different font styles and pick the ones that fit your project the best.

Transfer it

When you transfer bespoke text you will want to take care to capture the nuances and flourishes that make it unique. You can read more about different techniques to transfer here.

One of the considerations when transferring text is to use a fine pen/pencil so that you can more easily cover the writing in detail.

Stitch it

The choice of stitches is important. Some text can be curvy and flowing so the stitches need to be able to follow curves.

Some of the stitches that work well

• backstitch / whipped backstitch - backstitch itself can be used especially if very small stitches are created to fit round curves. Alternatively whipped backstitch can be used where the backstitches can be whipped/wrapped which smooths out curves but does thicken the stitching line.

• split stitch - split stitch is a stitch that can be used to create a very fine line of stitching. Again smaller stitches can be worked around curvy sections.

• chain stitch - chain stitch is a very versatile stitch and can be used for filling or for line stitches. It works better for larger text rather than small detailed lines.

• french knots - French knots can be used for dots, you could use this stitch for all of the lettering (but that might be a lot of work!)

You may want to try out different stitches before you commit to which one you will choose.

Another important consideration is the number of strands of thread used. For small text (around 1cm high) or if you want a fine look, then stitching with 1 strand of floss is recommended.

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How to decide which embroidery stitch to use

In my free patterns, I provide the basic outline and give you the freedom to select the stitches and colours to use. But how do you know which stitch to use?

All embroiderers will have their favourite stitches and it can be tempting to use those stitches in every project but here are some factors to consider the next time you start stitching.

type of design

The style and shape of the pattern can be a guide for which stitches to pick.

Floral designs tend to use stitches such as satin stitch for filled areas, line stitches such as stem stitch for stems, and decorative stitches such as French knots for the centre of flowers.

Abstract or geometric designs can work really well with different filling stitches stitched in different orientations.

Texture

Some designs include a raised element. I use French knots in this pattern to represent blossoms which are slightly raised from the branch. I love needle weaving and chain stitch to create a textured basket look on my houseplant patterns.

Area

If you have a massive area to fill, you don’t want to use French knots as it will take forever to fill the space. That’s why Satin stitch is used so much for filling large areas but long and short stitch is a great alternative. Smaller areas give you more freedom in choosing stitches.

Fabric

Most of the embroidery you do will be on cotton or similar finely woven fabrics but if you are stitching on something with a more open weave such as hessian small stitches will just disappear through the holes! Some fabric such as Aida or evenweave is so regular in its weave that it makes it perfect for cross stitches or back stitch if you are doing blackwork style embroidery. I’ve experimented with stitching on paper and stitches that don’t have many passes through the paper are particularly important when choosing which stitch to use.

Remember you may not make the right choice of stitch and if you don’t you can always get those scissors out and chop your stitching away. I’ve done that so many times during the pattern creation process when a stitch just isn’t working out in the way I intended.

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Focus on stitches for flowers

Many of my patterns feature flowers so I thought I'd share some different stitches that can be used to stitch flowers. 

• As with leaves, one of the most common stitches used for filling flower shapes is satin stitch

• For the centre of flowers, I like to use French knots or a variation on this, pistil stitch.

• Woven wheels are great for a rose like flower shape and looks great when a few are stitched together.

• Plants with tiny flowers such as heather or lavender can be stitched using bullion knots or granitos stitch.

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Focus on stitches for leaves

Many of my patterns feature leaves so I thought I'd share some different stitches that can be used to stitch leaves. They are all variations on satin stitch.

• Leaf stitch is what I call satin stitch that is angled up each side of the leaf. This creates a ditch of stitching along the centre of the leaf much like a vein which can be covered up with line stitches such as stem stitch or split stitch.

• Fishbone stitch (and raised fishbone stitch which is a bulkier version) are similar to leaf stitch but overlap in the centre of the leaf so there is no ditch. Open fishbone stitch is another variation where a bit of a gap is left between each stitch which I think looks like a leaf skeleton.

• Long and short stitch is one of my favourite stitches. It is satin stitch broken up into sections so gives a much more textured look. Each section can be stitched in the same colour or different colours. This stitch  is used for a technique called thread painting.

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Focus on transferring or tracing patterns

Continuing the series where I pick out some of my blog posts to share with you, this month's theme is transferring or tracing patterns. Most of my embroidery patterns require you to trace from the paper or digital pattern onto fabric.  

• There are different pens you can use to trace patterns, this post covers 5 different pens you can use. And this post gives more information about my favourite pen to use.

• If you want to get better at tracing patterns then this post covers my top tips and this post focusses on being more accurate when you trace.

I've got plenty of other blog posts about transferring  (and other aspects of embroidery) so I encourage you to browse through the embroidery tips page on my website.

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Focus on hoops

Continuing the series where I pick out some of my blog posts to share with you, this month's theme is hoops. 

• An embroidery hoop is one of the basic tools for embroidery but if you've not looked into the different parts of an embroidery hoop then I've outlined the anatomy of an embroidery hoop and the basics of using an embroidery hoop.

• I try and buy good quality embroidery hoops but occasionally you get one that it a bit wonky and in this blog I outline how to deal with a wonky hoop. 

• Hoops are a great way to display your finished embroidery and this blog post looks at different ways to finish the back of an embroidery hoop.

I've got plenty of other blog posts about hoops (and other aspects of embroidery) so I encourage you to browse through the embroidery tips page on my website.

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A focus on needles

It’s time to focus on one of the key tools for any embroiderer, the needle.

• There are many different types and sizes of needle available.  Picking the right needle can help make your life easier. This blog post shows five types of needles I commonly use and their different features. 

• Some people find it really challenging to thread a hand embroidery needle. In this blog post I've shared some of my tips for making this a little easier. 

• How do you keep your needles safe and stop them hurting you or other people? This blog post covers a range of different ways to store your needles when you are not using them. 

Enjoyed this blog post? I share embroidery tips and a free embroidery pattern in my monthly newsletter. Sign up here to receive the newsletter on the 1st of each the month.